South American food takes focus


Matute (centre) at the Hoja Mesada section where all the live action happens.

GROWING up in Lima, Peru, chef Diana Matute learned early on that food is not merely a cuisine, it is an expression of memory, culture and tradition.

Her culinary journey was shaped by a father who apprenticed under the pioneering Japanese-Peruvian chef Toshiro Konishi and a grandmother who passed down centuries of Peruvian heritage.

Translating more than 24 years of international culinary experience, her deep-seated connection to the Pacific coast has now found its newest canvas in Malaysia.

Delicia de Cacao featuring rich single-origin South American cacao paired with Brazil nuts.
Delicia de Cacao featuring rich single-origin South American cacao paired with Brazil nuts.

Matute leads the charge at Hoja as the first female head chef of W Kuala Lumpur, bringing a vibrant coastal dining experience to the heart of the city.

“The dishes here draw inspiration from the culinary traditions of Colombia, Peru and Chile.

“Guests can expect an abundance of fresh seafood, native ingredients and citrus-forward flavours that strike a balance between savoury, spicy and sweet,” she said.

Pulpo Parrilla, chargrilled octopus with Peruvian black mint sauce and roasted white corn kernels.
Pulpo Parrilla, chargrilled octopus with Peruvian black mint sauce and roasted white corn kernels.

Situated on Level 12 of W Kuala Lumpur, Hoja stands as Malaysia’s first dining concept dedicated exclusively to the coastal flavours of South America’s Pacific rim.

Diners can immerse themselves in the high-energy theatre of Hoja Mesada, a vibrant 26-seat chef’s counter serving sharing- style a la carte plates, or opt for the intimate atmosphere of Hoja Privado, an exclusive setting tailored for bespoke five- and eight-course tasting menus.

Ceviche Clasico, catch of the day bathed in Peruvian chilli pepper, coriander and tiger’s milk.
Ceviche Clasico, catch of the day bathed in Peruvian chilli pepper, coriander and tiger’s milk.

Begin the meal with the Ceviche Clasico, featuring the catch of the day bathed in aji limo (Peruvian chilli pepper), coriander and tiger’s milk.

Tiger’s milk is commonly added to a ceviche, a traditional Latin American dish made of fresh raw fish or seafood and a citrusy marinade infused with chilies.

Its piquant, tangy notes are balanced by sweet diced potatoes and a spicy chilli kick.

Meanwhile, the Tostadas de Atun pairs Japanese tuna, diced avocado and mango atop crispy flour tortilla chips, creating a wonderfully layered texture.

Asado showcases 48-hour slow-cooked Angus short ribs served with a rich Andean pesto.
Asado showcases 48-hour slow-cooked Angus short ribs served with a rich Andean pesto.

Over in the Tapas section, the Tiradito con Salmon is another highlight, where the sweetness of roasted corn beautifully complements the lime and coriander-infused tiger’s milk and sliced Pacific salmon.

Diners can take in the culinary display as the kitchen team cooks ingredients with precision at the grill station, providing a lively spectacle that whets the appetite.

Grilled to perfection, the Pulpo a la Parrilla features chargrilled octopus served with a creamy huacatay (Peruvian black mint) sauce and peppered with roasted white corn kernels.

The intense heat leaves distinct grill marks on the octopus, enhancing its firm, flavourful flesh which pairs harmoniously with a fresh Thai salad and salted coriander.

For meat lovers, the Asado showcases 48-hour slow-cooked Angus short ribs finished on the grill.

Honouring the beef’s intense depth, it is best enjoyed with a simple pinch of sea salt, though guests can also dip it into a rich Andean pesto for a creamy, herbal finish.

The Patarashka, on the other hand, presents smoked Patagonian cod marinated in mishkina, a yellow turmeric paste native to the Peruvian Amazon, served with yuca.

Wrapped in an earthy, golden warmth, the rich, buttery fish yields a tender, succulent texture imbued with a deep wood-fired aroma.

To finish, coconut enthusiasts can indulge in the Coco – an African baby coconut sorbet served alongside caramel jelly and topped with a crisp coconut tuile.

It is a refined dessert celebrating the diverse textures and elements of the fruit.

Another delectable closer is the Delicia de Cacao, featuring rich single-origin South American cacao paired with Brazil nuts.

A classic combination executed seamlessly, it serves as the ultimate sweet finale to the meal.

Hoja offers two seatings – 6pm to 8.30pm and 9pm to 11.30pm.

HOJA, Level 12, W Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 016-818 3088) Business hours: 6pm to midnight (Tuesday to Sunday)

This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.

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