SOME dishes don’t just feed the stomach – they lodge themselves deep in memory.
One of the most unforgettable meals from my childhood is my mum’s blackened fried pomfret, a dish so dark and smoky it looked, at first glance, like it had been burnt to a crisp.
The first time she served it after marrying my father, her mother-in-law (my paternal grandmother) took one look at the dish and remarked that she had burnt the fish. She hadn’t.
What she had done was create a dish that would become one of her culinary hallmarks: a bold, unapologetically charred fish, kissed with soy, caramelised sugar, fiery red chillies and a final flourish of lime and coriander.
It was a dish her children would ask for over and over again, a cornerstone of many family meals through the years.
Besides black pomfret, other fish such as Indian mackerel and hardtail scad may also be used for this recipe. — Photos: ARIQ HIDAYAT/The Star
In her original method, the fish was marinated in a mixture of dark soy sauce and sugar before frying.
It’s a brave move – one that risks the sugar burning before the fish finishes cooking.
But my mum has the sort of kitchen confidence that makes such things look effortless. I, on the other hand, lean toward caution.
In my version, I’ve adapted her bold marinade into a separate dressing, preserving the flavour profile while reducing the risk of a scorched pan.
This updated recipe is reminiscent of bawal hitam kicap, a dish you might spot at a humble Malay warung, though it carries with it the unmistakable spirit of home cooking – one honed through years of practice and familial instinct.
To prepare this dish properly, you must use a wok. Its rounded surface cradles the fish just right, allowing you to fry it evenly without needing an excessive amount of oil.
And once the fish is done, that same oil – now deeply aromatic from ginger – becomes the base for your dressing.
In the ginger-infused oil, fry the pomfret for about four to five minutes on each side until crispy.
It’s economical and flavourful, a one-wok wonder.
My mum has always insisted that some of this oil be drizzled back over the fish.
It keeps the flesh moist and smooth, she says, and the ginger’s role is not merely for fragrance – it actively dispels the natural fishiness of pomfret, letting the sweetness of the flesh shine through.
While black pomfret (bawal hitam) is the preferred fish for this dish, she has also made it with hardtail scad (cencaru) and Indian mackerel (kembung) with equal success.
What matters is that the fish is fresh, firm and able to stand up to a high-heat wok fry.
A final note on the dressing: be sure not to overcook the onions and chillies.
Their crunch should echo the crispness of the fish, adding a textural counterpoint to every bite.
And do not forget that essential finishing touch – a squeeze of lime and a scattering of crispy fried ginger.
That burst of brightness lifts the dish from earthy to electric.
This dish may have started with a misunderstanding at the dinner table, but over the years it has become a beloved family classic – blackened, bold and beautiful in every way.
Reserve two tablespoons of the oil to saute onions, garlic and chillies with dark soy sauce, light soy sauce and sugar for the dressing.
Blackened fried pomfret
Ingredients
500g black pomfret, scored along the thickest parts
1 tsp salt
½ cup cooking oil, or less if using a wok
10g ginger, finely julienned
Dressing
2 tbsp sugar
120g red onion, roughly chopped
15g garlic, thinly sliced
1 tbsp light soy sauce
2 tbsp dark soy sauce
2 pods red chillies, roughly chopped
Garnish
fried ginger
2 sprigs coriander
1 lime, cut into wedges
Directions
Marinate the pomfret with salt for about 30 minutes.
Heat the cooking oil in a skillet to fry the ginger until crispy.
Drain and reserve for garnish.
In the ginger-infused oil, fry the fish until crispy on both sides.
Transfer the fish onto a serving plate and drizzle some of the oil over the fish. This not only removes any fishiness but also maintains the fish’s moist, smooth texture.
Remove most of the oil from the skillet, reserving about two tablespoons to saute the dressing. Add the sugar into the oil over medium heat, melting it into a caramel.
Add the red onion and garlic to saute, then deglaze the skillet with light and dark soy sauces.
Finally, toss in the chillies briefly, ensuring that they and the onions remain crunchy.
Pour the dressing over the fish, garnish with fried ginger, coriander and lime wedges.
Serve immediately with steamed white rice.
