Victoria Bridge in Enggor straddles Sungai Perak and is still used by pedestrians. — Photos: IZZRAFIQ ALIAS/The Star
IT IS said that Larut district in Perak got its name from an elephant.
When the pachyderm that belonged to chieftain Long Jaafar went missing, he offered a handsome sum to the finder as a reward.
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When the animal returned several days later, his owner noticed smudges on its legs, that were later found to be tin ore.
That discovery transformed the sleepy backwater into a mining powerhouse in the 19th century, forever changing Larut’s socio-economic landscape.
Kuala Sepetang was formerly known as Port Weld and the first railway track in Malaysia connected it to Taiping.
Long Jaafar, who grew rich thanks to the mineral extraction business, then named the place after his pet elephant “Larut” in honour of its contribution.
Today, the Larut, Matang and Selama district is home to Taiping, a bustling township known for its heritage buildings and lush greenery.
The town, as well as Kuala Sepetang and Kuala Kangsar, are part of an initiative by Think City to promote tourism in the northern peninsula.
StarMetro was invited to discover these areas’ manifold attractions under Think City’s economic development through archaetourism project.
Royal town’s roots
In Kuala Kangsar, the Ubudiah Mosque in Bukit Chandan was built at a cost of 189,000 Malayan dollars, and was the brainchild of the state’s 28th Ruler, Sultan Idris Murshidul’adzam Shah.
After falling ill, he vowed to build a mosque should he recover, and construction began in September 1913.
Using marble imported from Italy, the mosque was completed in 1917 but the Sultan passed away a year earlier.
Since then, Ubudiah Mosque had gone through several upgrades and can now accommodate 1,000 worshipers at a time.
A replica of Long Jaafar’s pet elephant named ‘Larut’ with tin ore smudges on its legs at Matang Museum in Taiping.
Current imam Syed Muhammad Hazwan Syed Azmai, 34, said the opening of the mosque marked a turning point in Perak’s history.
“Before this area was developed, the state lacked a centralised administrative location.
“Sultan Idris changed that by clearing Bukit Chandan and turning Kuala Kangsar into the capital.”
Last year, state housing, local government and tourism executive councillor Datuk Nolee Ashilin Mohamed Radzi was reported to have said that plans were afoot to turn Bukit Chandan into a heritage site.
As mining activities picked up in the early 19th century, so did the need for a modern transport system to move the minerals.
Visitors enjoying their morning at Raintree Walk in Taiping Lake Garden.
One such example is the Victoria Bridge, which in these days attracts newlyweds and graduates for photoshoots.
Built circa 1900, the bridge in Enggor was used to transport coal to the Teluk Anson (now known as Teluk Intan) port.
Between 1910 and 2002, the 353m-long and 3.6m-wide railway served trains plying between Prai and Johor Baru.
The train service was discontinued after a new bridge was built nearby, although locals still use it daily to cross the Sungai Perak.
The lack of handrails and holes on the floor mean pedestrians must exercise caution when using it.
A local who gave his name as Mat, said there used to be safety nets on the bridge.
“But they were damaged by passers-by and went missing several years ago,” he said.
Town built on tin
In Taiping, Matang Museum chronicles the past struggles of local leaders against colonial rulers.
Built in 1855, it was originally the home of Ngah Ibrahim, son of Long Jaafar, before he was exiled to the Seychelles islands.
Upset with the exorbitant tax placed on tin production, he took part in a plot to kill the first British Resident of Perak, JWW Birch.
This resulted Ngah Ibrahim’s banishment from Perak, he was eventually allowed to settle in Sarawak, and then Singapore, where he died in 1895.
According to museum assistant Nordiana Nordin, the Malaysian government brought back his remains on Sept 9, 2006, to be buried here.
“It is unclear what happened to Ngah Ibrahim’s wealth and possessions after he was exiled.
“Many financial records relating to his business and properties were destroyed by the British,” she said.
The mining business also saw more labourers being brought in from Penang to work the mines.
But this caused strife in Larut due to the rivalry between the Ghee Hin and Hai San gangs.
Their conflict culminated in a series of wars that ended with the signing of the Pangkor Treaty on Jan 20, 1874.
Another museum in Perak is Istana Kenangan in Kuala Kangsar.
Located south-east of the Iskandariah Palace, this sword-shaped structure is made entirely of wood and without any nails.
Also known as Istana Lembah and Istana Tepas, the exhibits include regalia and items belonging to past Sultans.
Nature in all its glory
Nature lovers and seafood connoisseurs should head to Kuala Sepetang where a small fishing village is located.
Housing some 200 families, many locals make their living by catching prawns, cockles and fish along Sungai Reba and Sungai Sepetang.
Different species of monkeys can be spotted in the mangrove forest next to the rivers that flow out to Kuala Larut.
Here, visitors can cruise along the rivers and buy fresh catch directly from fishermen.
Masjid Ubudiah in Kuala Kangsar is a testament to the financial strength of Perak in the early 20th century.
Tour guide Mohd Jusri Yusoff, 50, said sometimes fishermen will sell one kg of cockles for as low as RM10.
He, however, said the cockles had grown smaller in recent years after their population dwindled.
“Usually, the fishermen would only catch adult cockles while the younger ones would be released back into the water.
“But the reduced population, coupled with increased demand, caused many fishermen to ignore this practice.
“As a result, cockles now are smaller compared to the ones caught in previous years,” he said.
Jusri added that the abundance of mangrove in Kuala Sepetang also gave rise to the charcoal-making business.
The Casuarina Inn atop a hill overlooking Taiping Lake Garden is a popular spot among paranormal hunters.
He said charcoal was in high demand in the 19th century to power trains.
“As mining activities picked up, the old means of transportation using bullock carts was no longer viable,” he said.
The charcoal-making industry still exists nowadays, although only 30% is sold locally, while the rest is exported, noted Jusri.
Another must-visit is Taiping Lake Garden, which houses 94 raintrees, 32 of which are found at the 630m-long Raintree Walk.
These trees are between 80 and 130 years and seven are valued at more than RM1mil, according to Taiping Municipal Council.
Ghostly attraction
Paranormal hunters may want to try their luck at the Casuarina Inn, located atop a hill overlooking the lake garden.
This abandoned complex sporting 34 white pillars was a rest house for British officials in the 19th century.
The site was turned into a hotel in the 1970s and remained operational until it closed down in 2010 and has been left idle since.
There is an urban legend that an apparition resembling a woman in a white dress, believed to be a former maid, haunts the place.
Tour guide Khairul Azman Ahmad, 50, said he regularly ferries tourists who want to “see” the ghost.
“I would drive up here, keep the car facing the exit with the engine running, and tell them to go while I wait for them.
“Usually, most will get cold feet and ask to leave immediately,” he said, adding that the site has an eerie atmosphere at night.
