Mountain that made warriors smile


A suspended bridge over a pond in front of Gunung Senyum. Abdul Razak advised against using the bridge as it has not been maintained.

While Gunung Senyum's name is pleasant, its legend revolves around the bittersweet love story of a wise man and a 'bunian' princess.

It may not be as well-known as Gunung Ledang and the folklore of its princess but Pahang’s Gunung Senyum has its own tale of broken promise and lost love as well.

Standing at 1,549 metres above sea level, the limestone and rock Gunung Senyum (smiling mountain) has many caves, several of which revolve around the local legend of Tok Long and his wife, a princess of the mystical orang bunian (supernatural being).

Gunung Senyum Recreational Forest keeper Abdul Razak Nordin, 56, said legend has it that a wise man named Tok Long had ventured into the forest around Gunung Senyum to trap birds but he unknowingly caught the attention of an orang bunian princess, who fell in love with him.

“The princess then told her father her wish to marry Tok Long.

Gunung Senyum juts out in the distance from among palm oil plantations.
Gunung Senyum juts out in the distance from among palm oil plantations.

“The father was shocked because they were from different realms. He thus set several conditions for the princess to fulfil.

“The princess had to bathe in Gua Kolam Tujuh (Cave of Seven Pools) and dry herself in Gua Angin (Wind Cave). She then had to bathe in the light of the moon in Gua Terang Bulan (Moonlight Cave),” he said.

Abdul Razak said that after fulfilling the conditions, the princess was allowed to marry Tok Long and as a gift to the newly-wedded couple, the orang bunian raised the scenery of the undersea into a cave, which is now known as Gua Taman Satu dan Dua.

As the years went by, Tok Long wanted to return to his village in the nearby Kuala Krau and promised his wife that he would return after a month.

There may be more than a hundred caves within Gunung Senyum but most are off limits to visitors.
There may be more than a hundred caves within Gunung Senyum but most are off limits to visitors.

“Tok Long did not return after a month because he was too caught up in the attention lavished upon him by the villagers.

“When he remembered his promise and went back to the mountain, he could no longer find his wife.

“He eventually saw the princess but could not touch her anymore. So there in Gunung Senyum, Tok Long waited, heartbroken until he died,” said Abdul Razak.

Indeed, when one climbs up the steep stairways into any one of the caves within Gunung Senyum, there is a lone grave where Tok Long rests.

As to how Gunung Senyum got its name, Abdul Razak said it was named by the then Sultan of Pahang Sultan Ahmad when he set eyes upon the mountain while visiting the area.

One of the many caves in Gunung Senyum is Gua Silat.
One of the many caves in Gunung Senyum is Gua Silat.

“He asked his warriors the name of the mountain but none of them knew it. Instead, they just grinned and so that was how the mountain got its name,” he said.

Abdul Razak said there were more than 100 caves within Gunung Senyum but most of them were too risky for visitors.

“There are many caves that we do not even dare to enter. For visitors, we recommend the main complex of Gunung Senyum and Gunung Jebak Puyuh, which is about a 45-minute walk from Gunung Senyum,” he said.

Abdul Razak added that it was possible to climb to the mountain’s peak but this was not advisable for inexperienced climbers to do on their own. A guide is recommended.

The lone grave of Tok Long is in one of the caves of Gunung Senyum, where he is said to have waited for his beloved bunian princess until the day he died.
The lone grave of Tok Long is in one of the caves of Gunung Senyum, where he is said to have waited for his beloved bunian princess until the day he died.

There are also four chalets, a dormitory and a camping ground for those who wish to stay the night as well as a hall and a stage for activities.

Abdul Razak, however, lamented the condition of some of the facilities due to a shortage of allocation from the Forestry Department.

“There used to be a flying fox activity here but was not maintained. It is very quiet here during weekdays and we normally get visitors from schools and the civil sector who come for motivation camps,” said Abdul Razak.

Steep steps lead to the caves of Gunung Senyum. But the cave at the end of these steps is off limits.
Steep steps lead to the caves of Gunung Senyum. But the cave at the end of these steps is off limits.

The Gunung Senyum Recreational Forest is located about 47km away from Temerloh town. It is open every day except during the monsoon season.

For Malaysians, the entrance fee is RM2 for adults and RM1 for children. For details, call 09-296 2755 (Temerloh/Bera Forestry Office).

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