Appreciating nature’s beauty in PD

Captivating view from the peak of Batu Putih

THE plan was to catch the sunrise at Cape Rachado in Port Dickson but we did not motor down from Kuala Lumpur, as that would have meant starting out as early as 4am.

Instead, we booked rooms in a hotel on Jalan Pantai and a 15-minute drive got us to Cape Rachado, next to Ilham Beach Resort.

We got to the entrance of the forest reserve at 6.30am and started up the road that cuts through the jungle to the lighthouse.

In the dark, the beam of a single headlamp guided our way as we covered the 800m rising walk along a tarred road.

Aside from being an internationally renowned birding destination, Cape Rachado is also home to various animal species.

Twenty minutes later, we saw a light source ahead, radiating from a naked bulb from a lone guardhouse at the base of the lighthouse.

Perched at the top of a long flight of 66 steps, the lighthouse sits on the highest point of the headland that juts out into the Straits of Malacca. At the foot of the lighthouse, an unobstructed view of the Straits of Malacca awaits visitors.

As it was not yet dawn, we circled the lighthouse in search of footpaths through the rainforest to the hidden beaches the area is noted for.

Halfway down the jungle trail, we packed away the headlamps as the sky lightened. The steep descent was very manageable as there were proper steps and a hand rail for support. We made it down to Pulau Intan beach just in time to catch the sunrise.

For the next 10 minutes, we were totally mesmerised by the persimmon sky, silently capturing images of the bright orb rising above the horizon, changing from red to orange and finally a sunny yellow.

The sun’s rays bathe the sky in hues of orange and red as it rose over the horizon.

With no one else in sight, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring the secluded beach from end to end. On the right, the beach ended with a rocky shore and mangrove patch.

Going inland, I emerged onto a cove on the other side, spotting tonnes of tiny hermit crabs among the rockpools.

Eager to see the next hidden beach, we resumed our hike along the narrow but clear trail that overlooks the edge as it drops into the sea. Walking with a view of the coast, rocky outcrops and the sea below us was a novel experience for me.

Though it was an uphill climb, I didn’t feel overly exerted as the sea breeze blowing in was rather soothing. For a cardio workout, we detoured inland after rounding the bend, to get to the top of the ridge before heading down once again.

The narrow hillside path with the sea on the right

We continued along the perimeter of the jutting cape until the footpath merged into more steps with handrails, bringing us down to Pantai Masjid beach.

We ‘found’ the second hidden beach after another 30-minute trek. Literally stumbling out of the jungle onto the beach, we found that this equally secluded spot had more beach access to the sea.

As it was low tide, the water looked calm and very inviting. Spotting a tree at the water’s edge, we clambered up its huge trunk for some digital experimentation.

There is also a spot here known as ‘Hang Tuah’s footprint’, where the legendary Malay warrior of the Malacca Sultanate was supposed to have set foot.

Taking the jungle trail that loops back to the lighthouse, the shade of tall trees, creepers and thick undergrowth kept the air cool. We briefly walked on a 1.2m-wide plank walkway, passing an ancient Dutch well, used to supply drinking water.

Reverting back to a single track, the trail then inclined upwards, before merging onto proper steps with a handrail. We gained elevation quickly as the zig-zag stairway brought us up to a rest stop just before the lighthouse.

Cape Rachado Lighthouse is believed to be the oldest in the country.

As you go down the lighthouse road, watch out for a trail on the left to Batu Putih. The 400m trek to the peak of the white rocks promises a fantastic view of the coastline.

Rejoining the road again, it was a quick 10 minutes back to where we parked our cars and breakfast.

Getting There:

Cape Rachado Lighthouse

Rumah Api Tanjung Tuan, Port Dickson

N 2°24’46.8” E 101°51’13.0”

Entrance Fee : RM1

From Kuala Lumpur, take the North-South Expressway E2 and head south approximately 50km until the Port Dickson exit. After the toll booth, turn right at the traffic lights and follow the road (Seremban-Port Dickson Highway, E29) for 26km. Continue to the end of the highway at the roundabout, take the first exit onto Route 5 (Jalan Pantai) and continue for 6km. Look for a junction turning right with a signboard ‘Rumah Api Tanjung Tuan’ and take the right turn.

Follow the road until the end where you will see the Ilham Resort and the gated entrance to Tanjung Tuan Forest Reserve.

Cape Rachado/Tanjung Tuan

Cape Rachado is a gazetted forest reserve and wildlife sanctuary, with several hidden beaches, patches of mangrove swamps and a historical lighthouse at the summit. This natural attraction lies 18km south of Port Dickson town.

The 60ha forest reserve is also an internationally-recognised birding area as it is a stopover for more than 300,000 migratory birds each year. A favourite bird-watching spot, Cape Rachado plays host to Raptor Watch from February to April every year.

It is also the site of the biggest naval battle between the Dutch and Portuguese in 1606, where heavy losses were sustained.

A functional lighthouse sits atop the highest point of the Cape to monitor shipping traffic in the Straits of Malacca and aid in communications. Built in 1528, Cape Rachado Lighthouse (“Broken Cape” in Portuguese) is said to be the oldest in the country with the original structure dating back to the 16th century. The new tower was completed in 1990 and has a Measat radar at the top of the structure.