The entrance to Concubine Lane. — Photos: PRIYAN R. NAIK
While I was on holiday recently in Ipoh, Perak, I was surprised to see an awkward street name: Concubine Street.
The street is a veritable tourist landmark, and perhaps the most hyped-up attraction in Ipoh, a symbol of urban vice that makes one think of brothels and gambling dens that may have once flourished there in the past.
Concubine Lane’s intriguing name sparks much curiosity and speculation. As the story goes, a famous tycoon gifted this street to one of his concubines over a hundred years ago, although many also believe the lane was a secret spot for wealthy locals and British colonial administrators to keep their mistresses.
Its controversial past that included tales of opium dens and brothels only added to my desire to want to explore the place, which to me, is akin to a living museum of culture, history, and modern-day vibrancy.
There were several other tourists from different countries at Concubine Lane, as well as visitors from other parts of Malaysia, taking selfies and purchasing mementos. Two young women seemed deep in thought and contemplation, trying perhaps to imagine the days of yore when pretty young women populated the lane.
Others were busy sampling different kinds of almonds, pistachios and cashew nuts. Even I was tempted to try an Instagram-worthy “rainbow cheese toast”, not only packaged beautifully and appealingly but with a delicious flavour as well.
But it’s not just cheese toast and nuts that you can find there. Concubine Lane is flanked by popular coffee shops, cool cafes, and dessert houses, verily a collection of touristy eateries selling some amazing traditional desserts and local coffee.
One of the murals on the main Concubine Lane in Ipoh. — Photos: PRIYAN R. NAIK
Concubine Lane had been given a modern makeover by street artists, who painted murals on the walls that capture the area’s history and heritage.
Towards the entrance I found a mural depicting a “concubine”, and her patron enjoying a cup of tea. The patron had a nonchalant expression on his face while the lade was saucily dressed, trying to be as appealing as possible under the circumstances. The table was laid out with other tea-time delicacies.
Looking at the mural, I could mentally picture tales of love, secrecy and the opulence of Ipoh’s past residents.
Concubine Lane is actually divided into three distinct sections, each unique in its own way and offering a different glimpse of Ipoh’s rich heritage. The western section, inscribed “Concubine Lane”, had transformed itself into a bustling tourist hot spot. I found it brimming with quaint cafes, vibrant shops, and sprinkled with historical landmarks.
It was mid afternoon and hot yet the street was alive with the echoes of its colourful past, filled to the brim with laughter and chatter of visitors and locals.
The “Second Concubine Lane” and “Wife Lane”, in contrast were quieter, the walls nevertheless showcasing street murals, including one depicting an image of a family enjoying curry noodles, and another of a man collecting rubbish.
Cool umbrellas, festive decorations and lanterns acted as a “roof”, offering some respite from the blazing sun above, and adding a magical and enchanting touch to the lane at the same time.
Fully immersed in the whimsical beauty and historical nuances of this unique lane, I felt my holiday had become special. I felt drawn by the allure of uncovering mysterious historical stories of love and romance, the joy of discovering art at every corner, and savouring the simple pleasure of a leisurely meal.
This lane, a fabric of Ipoh’s tourism landscape, had woven itself into the contours of my Malaysian holiday. I definitely recommend a visit to Concubine Lane, which awaits all tourists with open arms, ever-ready to tell its story to those who wander its path.
The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.
