Malaysian visits the Korean Demilitarised Zone while studying in Seoul

The MAC Building is in the South Korean side.

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While doing an engineering course at Hanyang University in Seoul, South Korea some years ago, I had a few opportunities to visit interesting places during the semester breaks. One of the places that had the most lasting impression on me was the Panmunjom, located within the Korean Demilitarised Zone (DMZ).

Panmunjom was where armistice was reached during the Korean Civil War in 1953. I visited this place twice, first with friends and then again with my mother and eldest sister who came to Korea for my graduation.

Until today, all visitors would need to register with a tour agency before heading to the DMZ; you are not permitted to visit without a registered tour guide.

Panmunjom is located about 50km north of Seoul. On my way there, I saw many concrete blocks positioned in a zigzag formation beside the highway, as well as huge overhead concrete slabs built across the highway. According to our tour guide, the structure was meant to stop any attack from tanks, in case war broke out.

It seemed like South Korea had learned a valuable lesson from the Korean War, which saw North Korean tanks easily penetrating their defensive lines.

Before reaching Panmunjom, we stopped to visit a monument built in memory of 7,420 soldiers from the Philippines, who were in the war as part of the United Nations peacekeeping forces.

When we got to the first guard post at Panmunjom, a US army sergeant came onto the bus. He introduced himself as the sergeant on duty and would guide us around the Joint Security Area or JSA. He led us to Camp Bonifas, the UN Command (UNC) camp.

The JSA was set up as a place to hold diplomatic meetings. Within the area was the Military Armistice Commission Building (MAC), while the yellow Military Demarcation Line (MDL) that separates North and South Korea ran through the meeting table in this building.

We could see special military guards from both sides standing face-to-face, guarding their respective areas. There was no fence to separate them, only the MDL. The guards constantly observed each other in a “suspicious manner” and I’m sure they were ever ready to strike when needed.

The author (in a blue jacket) standing in front of Freedom House Pagoda at the JSA.

The MAC was sandwiched between the Freedom House (South Korea) and Pan Mun Gak Building (North Korea). There was also a small village called Freedom Village or Taesong-Dong near the MDL. The residents in this village had opted to stay put on their ancestral land and work in the fields, instead of moving to either side. They are said to be protected by UNC forces.

Sachon River flowed through the Panmunjom, and you can walk on the Bridge Of No Return built over it. The bridge is so called because this was where prisoners-of-war were repatriated in 1953. Once a prisoner crosses over the bridge to one side, he or she is no longer allowed to return.

As the JSA is still considered a hostile zone, all visitors must strictly abide by its rules and regulations. No one is allowed to speak or make any sign gestures to a North Korean guard; taking pictures or videos of a guard is forbidden; you may not cross the MDL except when you are inside the MAC, but even then you have to be guided by a UNC guard.

Every visitor must also sign a disclaimer which much states that although the UNC ensures the safety of tourists, in the case of a surprise attack from either side, it will not be responsible if you are injured, or worse.

After we signed the disclaimer, we boarded the bus again, which then took us to the Freedom House. Here, we were ushered to the Freedom House Pagoda. Built on higher elevation, the pagoda gave a bird’s eye view of the MAC and the Pan Mun Gak. Guards watched us very closely with binoculars and cameras.

Upon entering the MAC, we saw the infamous long meeting table, and the MDL ran through the centre of it. This was where we were allowed to cross into North Korean territory, under the watchful eyes of guards. I asked a well-built UNC guard if I could take a picture with him and he complied, but without leaving his post or losing attention.

Meanwhile, the North Korean guards were observing us closely from outside the building through windows.

After that, we went to the UNC Post 5 located at the oval road. You could say that this was the best “tourist” spot as it gave us the best view of North Korea, including the Bridge Of No Return. It looked like a calm and peaceful place but in reality, it is a hostile area where shooting and killing could happen at the slightest provocation or order.

Despite the truce in 1953, technically, the war in Korea never ended. Fortunately, through continuous dialogue, meeting and peaceful negotiations, any conflict has been avoided thus far.

The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.