Lipstick styles are probably the defining marker of makeup trends.
"Foundation lips" dominated the early 2000s, overlining was everywhere in 2016, but the latest technique gaining traction among celebrities like Dua Lipa is the "halo lip" – a diffused approach that promises fullness without obvious artifice.
Unlike the heavily sculpted lip looks of the past decade, the halo lip is designed to look almost accidental. With blurred edges, the centre is lighter and the overall effect is softer.
As qualified makeup artist and Revolution ambassador Emily Wood puts it, “A halo lip is about softness and dimension rather than strict placement.”
What exactly is a halo lip?
At its core, the halo lip plays with light. Depth is concentrated around the edges and corners of the mouth, while the centre of the lips is left lighter – sometimes nearly bare – to create what Wood describes as “a natural halo of light”.
“Unlike ombre, which usually fades from dark on the outside to light on the inside in a very deliberate way, a halo lip is more diffused and effortless,” she explains.
And while overlining relies on drawing outside the natural lip shape, the halo lip doesn’t depend on exaggeration.
“You can still follow or slightly enhance the natural lip line... the magic comes from blending, not from drawing a sharp outline.”
Paige Williams, founder and chief executive of cosmetic brand PLouise, agrees, suggesting that “you keep the lip line clean and natural, go slightly deeper on the inner corners of the lips, then pop a lighter or glossy shade right in the centre”.
Read more: Ask The Expert: Makeup 101 by this Malaysian pro who works with celebrities
Why it’s so flattering
By allowing brightness to sit at the fullest part of the lips, the mouth appears symmetrical without harsh edges.
“It’s flattering because it works with how light naturally hits the face, keeping depth around the lips while allowing the centre to stay lighter makes the lips look fuller, rounder and more balanced,” says Wood.
By pulling light forward, she says, the technique “makes lips look naturally fuller and more sculpted”. Crucially, it works with the natural lip shape rather than trying to redraw it, which is why it tends to look good on everyone.
Matte or gloss?
The halo lip isn’t tied to one finish, which is part of its appeal. Both matte and glossy formulas work but they just give different results.
“Matte products give a more sculpted, editorial feel,” says Wood, especially when paired with a soft satin lipstick rather than a flat matte.
Gloss, on the other hand, gives an instant softness and visual volume.
Her preferred approach is a hybrid: creating the halo shape with liner and a satin or matte lipstick, then tapping a little gloss into the centre for a lived-in finish.
Williams says gloss “takes the halo effect to another level by catching the light and making lips look instantly fuller”.
Her go-to trick is matte shades around the edges with gloss applied only to the centre – keeping the shape lifted without losing that plump finish.
Read more: Vanity Fare: Beauty products that keep your lips soft, full and supple
How to do it at home
To do this lip trend, start with a lip liner just slightly deeper than your natural lip tone, applied along the natural shape. The key step is blending: blur the liner inward with a finger or brush so there are no harsh lines.
Apply a lipstick close to your lip colour mostly around the outer parts of the lips, again blending softly. Leave the centre lighter, adding either very little product or a touch of gloss or balm.
“The less perfect it looks, the better it usually is,” says Wood.
Williams adds, “It’s all about layering and placement... smooth, hydrated lips make everything blend better.”
Which shades work best?
The trick to the halo lip is to make sure the contrast isn’t too intense.
“Shades that sit close together work best,” Wood explains – think nude paired with a lighter nude, or complementary rosy tones layered together.
High-contrast combinations can look striking, but are harder to wear day to day. For deeper skin tones, rich browns, chocolates and caramels with a lighter centre are particularly effective, especially with a glossy finish.
Lighter skin tones tend to suit pinky nudes, peaches and soft mauves.
If you’re new to the trend, both artists recommend keeping things simple: one liner slightly deeper than your lip colour and a nude lipstick or gloss you already love. Blend well, add light at the centre, and let the halo do the work. – dpa
