A fashion show is more than just the clothes. Designers often conceptualise creative stage setups, which work to captivate and tell an immersive story as seen during the fashion weeks for Autumn/Winter 2024.
Recreating memories
Datuk Zang Toi recreated a whole Paris street on the runway at New York Fashion Week recently. It was a tribute to his late brother, who passed away last year.
“Saint Germain was his favourite neighbourhood,” the Malaysian designer says over the phone.
Toi recalls specific places from memory.
“We often spent the afternoon there having lunch at Brasserie Lipp. We would also have coffee at Cafe De Flore and just do some people watching. He loved shopping in all the chic shops in the neighbourhood.”
While the show took place at the Upper East Side of Manhattan, the vibe on the runway was quintessentially Parisian.
“I dreamt up the backdrop of a stunning cafe in Saint Germain with the view of the Eiffel Tower, and used sexy French songs to transport the audience to another city,” Toi enthuses.
He also leaned into the theme with very specific styling for the models.
“I styled my designs with an edgier, rebellious look, using a sleek boy hairstyle – side-parted or centre-parted, plus red feathers,” Toi explains, about recreating that fierce yet polished street style synonymous with Paris.
“I also accessorised the outfits with fishnet stockings. Shoes were black motorcycle booties or chunky red high heels.”
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A surreal setup
Other designers put on elaborate runway shows to wow audiences, as well. Marc Jacobs turned his runway into a dollhouse of sorts.
During the show in New York, models walked around and under giant-size furniture. The massive folding table and chairs placed on stage were art sculptures by the late American artist, Robert Therrien.
Jacobs used dramatic lashes and exaggerated hairdos to further transform the women wearing his clothes into puppets.
He also played with proportions. The designs hung off each model stiffly – like two- dimensional clothing cutouts on paper dolls.
Over in London, Priya Ahluwalia built a simulated jungle indoors. It was complete with flora and fauna, as well the immersive sounds of chirping birds.
The collection for her Ahluwalia label were inspired by Nigerian folklore. Painting techniques specific to the Igbo people of Nigeria helped decorate different design pieces.
For Cecilie Bahnsen’s Paris show, models had to navigate around a large-scale installation of an apple.
“An apple represents desire – love, strength, beauty. But it is also banal,” reads the designer’s show notes.
“I am attracted by this juxtaposition of high and low, by the clash between luxury and everyday life.”
As such, the clothes used contrasting materials.
Leather was paired with organza, for example. Thick cable knits emphasised the softness of sheer dresses, not mentioning the use of boots and sneakers to “harden” feminine dresses.
Read more: Paris Fashion Week blends history with the future in surreal runway shows
Putting on a show
Live performances have also become a common addition to runway shows.
Rather than to entertain guests, these serve to elevate runway shows into visual spectacles worthy of being shared widely across social media platforms.
At the Onitsuka Tiger runway presentation in Milan, Avant-Gardey wowed with a synchronised routine, wearing custom yellow uniforms.
The Japanese dance team gained worldwide popularity last year, after becoming finalists on season 18 of reality television programme America’s Got Talent.
Internationally renowned pianist, Yuja Wang, played on a piano wrapped in yellow. The music was composed especially for the show to express the collection’s theme.
Richard Quinn’s London show included a pianist too, plus a string quartet. Music played a part in bringing to life a romantic atmosphere.
The London-based fashion and print designer incorporated vintage-inspired bridalwear into his collection.
To further underscore the romantic theme, Quinn decorated the showspace with huge bouquets of pink and white roses and puddle-length floral-themed curtains.
Although not live music, Burberry’s use of Amy Winehouse songs played right into a runway theme of celebrating heritage.
The late singer is considered a British music icon. Burberry has a long and illustrious history of being a British fashion house.
Winehouse’s greatest hits were heard as models walked during the London show. The music was interspersed with snippets of her past interviews as well.
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