What is dermaplaning, and why is this beauty technique considered controversial?

A popular treatment with younger people, dermaplaning already has almost four billion views on TikTok. Photo: AFP

The idea of shaving the entire face to get baby-soft skin could sound dubious, if it wasn't for the very real service being offered by many beauty salons.

Dermaplaning, which has been practiced for several years now, is making waves around the world, particularly among younger generations, and now has almost four billion views on TikTok. But the trend is proving somewhat controversial.

All means are good when it comes to getting beautiful, smooth, radiant skin, with an even complexion and almost no imperfections.

Some rely on natural remedies, others on the multiplication of cosmetic treatments, and more and more are turning directly to beauty salons, or even dermatologists, to take advantage of cutting-edge techniques and methods.

One of these, although controversial among beauty experts, is called dermaplaning, and it's appealing in particular to the younger generation, who have taken to carrying it out at home using very specific tools.

At the end of 2021, the beauty services booking platform, Treatwell, revealed that dermaplaning was among the two treatments – along with chemical peels – most favoured by French 18 to 30 year-olds.

Meanwhile, the #dermaplaning hashtag counts nearly four billion views on TikTok and two-and-a-half billion views on Instagram.

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Deep exfoliation

Dermaplaning is often associated with the removal of the fine, downy facial hair, known as peach fuzz, and it certainly does that. But it's first and foremost a non-invasive treatment to get rid of dead skin cells.

In other words, this technique is nothing more than a deep exfoliation performed with a kind of scalpel – not a razor (if possible). The tool used is more precisely a small, flat blade with tiny teeth, which can now be purchased online, in specialist stores, or from major retailers, to perform this treatment at home.

By removing downy hair and dead skin cells, the result is brighter, smoother skin that looks just like new, without the use of chemical products.

According to some dermatologists and beauticians, as well as many beauty salons, dermaplaning is not only beneficial for the appearance of the skin, but also for combating skin ageing, and in particular skin's lack of firmness.

As an added bonus, the treatment is said to improve the absorption of everyday products and boost makeup hold.

On paper, then, it seems to have everything going for it... provided that you don't do it just any old way and at any old time, and that you seek the advice of a professional to find out whether your skin type is well suited to this now globally popular technique.

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Sensitive and acne-prone skin beware

Experts almost all agree that dermaplaning is safe for skin types considered normal, with no problems whatsoever. But this is not the case for reactive, sensitive or acne-prone skin, or for skin affected by certain conditions, such as eczema.

Not only can the treatment aggravate these skin problems, but it can also – in some cases – cause infection, scarring, redness and irritation, which is why it's so important to seek professional advice.

This is what seems to have happened to the TikTok user, Regina Quaye, whose story was picked up by several British media outlets. The young woman claims, with photos to support her, that her experimentation with dermaplaning resulted in an acne breakout that required treatment with hydrocortisone.

Yet another good reason to seek expert advice before trying this treatment.

While dermatologists generally approve of this technique, provided it is carried out under the right conditions, others are trying to set the record straight by looking at what's true and what's not when it comes to dermaplaning and its supposed benefits.

Dr Anthony Youn, a US-based cosmetic surgeon who takes an in-depth look at new beauty trends on TikTok, confirms that dermaplaning removes dead skin and peach fuzz, that cosmetics penetrate the skin better after the treatment, and that it even improves blood circulation, but that it does not get rid of acne scars or hyperpigmentation.

Meanwhile, Dr Muneeb Shah, better known on TikTok as DermDoctor, validates the technique but recommends carrying it out only once every few weeks.

In all cases, this kind of treatment should be followed by the application of a moisturising cream, and especially by appropriate sun protection, as the skin will be more sensitive to UV rays.

These are products that an experienced professional will be happy to recommend to you after a session. The average session lasts between 30 minutes and an hour, depending on the salon or dermatologist. – AFP Relaxnews