Fun designs, colours and accessories? Modestwear in Malaysia can be trendy

Scarves and inners that are breathable and stylish are an essential part of a hijabi's daily look. Photo: Umma

Modest wear or Muslimah clothing brands is a huge market worldwide. It’s not only Muslims who wear it but also those who prefer their clothes to cover more skin.

In Malaysia, more modestwear labels have been coming out over the years and there are already several established ones.

Poplook offers a selection of pieces that include casual wear, office wear, festive wear and sports attire, as well as scarves, shoes, bags and accessories.

“We prioritise style, quality and comfort,” says senior marketing executive Bella Zaul Kafle.

“Also, increasingly, longevity is key. Our pieces are made to stand the test of time so that our customers can wear our designs season after season.”

Another modestwear brand, Zucca, offers a range of garments that are made with daily use in mind, whether it’s for work, school or casual hangouts.

Today, there are more options for polished and professional office wear that is modest. Photo: Zucca

The brand is known for its versatile and comfortable blouses that can be paired with pants or skirts, and their flowy dresses and kaftans for more formal occasions.

“Our garments are designed to be both modest and fashionable so that our customers can express their individuality and personal style through our clothing,” says co-founder Erica Yap.

“Our collection includes a variety of items such as scarves, blouses, skirts, pants, and dresses that combine style, comfort, and functionality,” she adds.

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Creative and challenging

Meeting the requirements of modest clothing such as long sleeves, high necklines, ankle-length bottoms and loose-fitting pieces can prove more challenging than designing clothing with no restrictions.

However, this doesn’t deter brands that design modestwear, as there are plenty of ways to create clothing that one can wear to express their individual style, while also having peace of mind that what they are wearing adheres to their personal religious beliefs.

“We understand that modestwear can sometimes be limited in terms of design and style, so we aim to offer versatile pieces that can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion,” says Yap.

“We believe that clothing should be an expression of one’s personal style and individuality, so we strive to offer a range of designs and styles that can be customised to suit our customer’s preferences.

At Zucca, designing modestwear involves analysing trends, customer behaviour and predicting what will do well in the market.

“For example, after the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, we noticed that our customers were looking for something in between formal and informal wear due to the shift towards work from home,” says Yap.

“To meet these needs, we launched wide-leg jeans and knitwear that can be used to substitute traditional formal wear like trousers and shirts. Overall, our design philosophy is centered around creating comfortable, versatile, and practical pieces that meet the needs of our customers and empower them to express their individual style,” she adds.

Of course, for hijabis, scarves and inners that are breathable and stylish are an essential part of their daily look, and the label Umma is a popular choice when it comes to these items.

“Our key pieces are our scarf inners,” says founder Zairin Azman.

“The Suri inner volumniser adds volume when wearing a scarf, and our inner net, which uses cotton lycra and mesh net provides good circulation for the scalp and hair.”

Umma’s designs are made up of mostly straight cuts, loose and oversized pieces, with tops falling below the hip.

“Our important design feature is definitely fashionable, but modest at the same time,” says Zairin.

Current trends and colours

According to Bella, pastels are one of the most popular colours, year in year out, but this year there has been a spike in demand specifically for lilac, black and maroon.

“In terms of fabric, natural fabrics like cotton, linen and rayon have grown in popularity. We believe customers are prioritising breathability and comfort, so these fabrics are pretty perfect for our weather,” says Bella.

A demand for earthy tones and autumn hues is also on the rise, according to Yap.

Opacity is an important aspect in the modest wear design process. Photo: Poplook

“These warm, rich colours are perfect for the current season and are easy to mix and match with other pieces in your wardrobe. We believe that earth tones are a timeless choice that can be incorporated into your wardrobe in a variety of ways,” she says.

As for cuts, Yap has observed a trend towards looser, more relaxed styles, including oversized tunics, flowy pants, and loose-fitting dresses.

“We believe that these styles are not only comfortable but also allow for greater freedom of movement and versatility in styling,” she adds. “When it comes to styling, we are seeing a trend towards more casual and easy-to-wear pieces that can be mixed and matched with other items in your wardrobe.”

Layering is an ever-popular trend, as there are so many ways to elevate an outfit’s look, such as throwing on a sheer cardigan over a lightweight tunic.

It’s a great way to add dimension and texture to an outfit, while staying cool in hot weather.

“Additionally, incorporating pieces with unique details such as ruffles or embroidery can elevate a simple outfit without the need for layering,” says Yap.

For layering, Umma offers breathable inner tops (both sleeveless and long sleeve), and has an inner dress in the works that can be worn underneath outer clothing.

“Our soon-to-be-launched inner Bodee dress can be layered underneath sheer dresses or tops and skirts,” says Zairin.

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All about the fabrics

One of the crucial elements of creating modestwear that is wearable and comfortable is the fabric – it has to be opaque but also lightweight enough to be worn in tropical weather.

Opacity is an aspect that Poplook pays close attention to in their design process.

“Light-coloured fabrics, especially white, tend to be sheer,” says Bella.

“Certain fabric constructions, for example chiffon, would be sheer in any colour. In these cases, we source suitable lining fabrics to ensure an item’s opacity. In general, we look at fabric density and describe our items accurately so customers know what to expect.”

For the designers at Zucca, fabric selection must fulfill the following criteria: breathable, lightweight, and stretchable, to ensure utmost comfort.

“For tops, we often use cotton rayon, which is a blend of cotton and rayon fibres. This material is lightweight, breathable, and soft to the touch, making it ideal for everyday wear. Cotton rayon also drapes beautifully and has a slight sheen that adds a touch of elegance to any outfit,” explains Yap.

“For bottoms, we often use Lycra or Spandex, which are both stretchable fabrics that allow for greater freedom of movement. These materials are also breathable and lightweight, which makes them ideal for Malaysia’s tropical climate. We believe that stretchable fabrics are especially important for modest wear bottoms, as they allow for a comfortable and flattering fit without sacrificing modesty.”

Playing with accessories

Even the most minimalist of dressers incorporate some jewellery into their daily looks.

Zairin recommends experimenting with different lengths and styles of simple yet chic earrings, long necklaces and bracelets.

“When it comes to accessorising a modest outfit, the hijab is one of the most important pieces to consider. The hijab is not only a symbol of modesty, but it can also be a beautiful and versatile accessory that can be styled in many different ways to complement any outfit,” says Yap.

She adds that one of the most popular ways to style a hijab is by draping it loosely over the head and shoulders, allowing for a soft and elegant look.

“Another popular style is to wrap the hijab more tightly around the head, creating a sleek and sophisticated appearance,” she adds.”

Bella believes that with fashion, the most important thing is to find joy in putting your look together.

“Depending on your physique, different proportions will work better for any given individual. We encourage people to try playing with layering, using belts and incorporating statement jewellery to mix things up. Most importantly, whether modest or not, is to have fun with it,” she says.