As the hijabi market grows, designers turn their attention to modest activewear

Material is the most important factor when it comes to modest activewear. Photo: The Modest Brand

For the longest time, women who choose to dress modestly have had to settle for exercising or doing sports in baggy T-shirts layered over long-sleeved tops, paired with shapeless and bulky trackpants.

To add to this, pretty much the only option for covering their hair was by donning the headscarves they wear daily.

In recent years, however, more brands have started launching modest activewear ranges, as popularity for it grows.

According to the 2020/21 State of the Global Islamic Economy Report from research and advisory firm Dinar Standard and Islamic economy news platform Salaam Gateway, Muslim expenditure on clothing will grow to reach US$311 billion (RM1.29 trillion) in 2024.

The largest markets for modest wear come from the Middle East, while Indonesia placed as the world’s fifth-largest modest fashion Muslim consumer market, said the report.

Not far behind, Malaysia and Singapore saw increased demand for pandemic-appropriate modest loungewear and accessories to match, and interestingly, modest fashion made with sustainable materials gained traction across the region.

While mainstream sports brands are taking advantage of the demand for modest activewear, local brands like The Modest Brand are constantly developing new products to bridge the gap in this clothing category.

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Its creative director Sara Eiroa says the inspiration behind their athleisure and activewear garments is to provide modestwear that can be worn comfortably for working out freely and securely, and for dressing stylishly for other occasions beyond the gym.

“Zeroing in on women in general, and their freedom to be both feminine and powerful without forgoing their principles or choice to be modest definitely serves as our drive,” explains Eiroa.

The dUCk Group, which has been committed to delivering solutions to hijabis since 2014, recently launched The Sporty dUCk, a collection which tackles the challenges they face when it comes to sports attire

“When it comes to women’s activewear, crop tops and skin-tight leggings have always been the norm. We saw an opportunity with the lack of diverse activewear options for modest women who prefer full-coverage clothing,” says the group’s creative director Jacky Hussein.

“There were limited options which made modest women opt for activewear that is usually non-functional, bulky, heavy and not stylish,” she adds.

Finding a headscarf you can wear comfortably for fitness activities is important. Photo: The dUCk Group

Everyday issues

Globally, there is still a lack of options in the area of fashion-forward clothing for women who want to be stylish while adhering to their religious principles, as well as for those who choose to dress modestly for other reasons.

While modest fashion is a booming market and has a growing customer base, it just isn’t represented enough.

“There are a wide range of hijab brands in the market, but when it comes to finding one that ticks all the boxes – one that’s equal parts functional and fashionable, eco-friendly, quality yet doesn’t break the bank – that’s another story,” says Eiroa.

“By realising this increasing need, The Modest Brand was kick-started to introduce athleisure wear that’s fashion-forward, comfortable and eco-friendly for today’s modern women,” explains Eiroa.

“We found that some of the everyday problems that hijabis and the modern woman face is that it may be hard to find clothing that has the right balance between comfort, functionality and of course, style,” says The dUCK Group’s head of product Amirah Rozi.

A comfortable “inner”, used to keep hair in place under one’s scarf, can also be challenging to find.

Carissa Mae Tan, designer for Poplook, another local brand which has sportswear and swimwear in addition to regular clothing, explains that suitable inner materials like cotton or cotton blends are the best option to help one’s scarf stay in place.

Another challenge when it comes to inners is choosing a suitable design.

“Inners that cover the neck might not be a good choice due to our weather but some prefer this style as it will cover the neck area when you wear thin chiffon scarves,” says Tan, who adds that finding that balance between affordable pricing and good quality is another problem hijabis face.

Activewear obstacles

While these are challenges faced with regular, day-to-day clothing, dressing modestly for sports or any kind of physical activity is another game altogether.

“When it comes to sports hijabs, we found three most common limitations, the first being the cut. Most sports hijabs in the market have a tight fit, but we found out that most women prefer to have more volume around the neck for some airflow. We added an adjustable elastic string that enables women to choose their fit,” Eiroa explains.

Generally, hijabis are hindered by the lack of options for modest activewear, says Sara Eiroa.

The second limitation was the adjustability factor, as many in the market limited movements as the hijabs did not stay in place, a problem they addressed by designing an inner headband that holds your hair and stays put to maximise performance.

Finally, they found that most materials were not appropriate and didn’t feel right.

“The material is the most important factor as it comes in contact with your skin. Our hijab is crafted using two fabrics – a thick yet soft material for the headband, and a thin and breathable version of the same fabric as the main material,” explains Eiroa.

The Sporty Duck collection introduces functional activewear, created using absorbent, fast-drying, anti-odour, anti-bacterial performance-enhancing material which reflects UV rays.

Active scarves, inners, pants and tops are designed with modest cuts and non-slip headbands keep hair and hijab in place.

Innovative technology

Research and development into sportswear is constantly producing better technology which translates to superior products, while prioritising sustainability.

Minimising their environmental impact is top of mind for most brand owners, who make it their aim to design and produce garments in an eco-conscious way.

Eiroa says eco-consciousness is one of their core values so all their products are meticulously designed with longevity and circularity in mind to minimise our environmental impact.

“All the materials used in production – from fabrics to packaging – are recycled. Recycled polyester, nylon and cotton are the three main materials we use, but we are constantly exploring and expanding our line-up of eco-certified materials. Aside from that, our hang tags and boxes are made from soy, which means they’re completely biodegradable,” she adds.

Recycled polyester is the key material used in the sports apparel they produce.

The fabric, also known as RPET, is made of recycled plastic water bottles, textile waste, and even old fishing nets.

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“There were limited options which made modest women opt for activewear that is usually non-functional, bulky, heavy and not stylish,” says Jacky Hussein.

The dUCk Group believes in sustainability and uses green technology.

“We are the first Malaysian brand to use S.Cafe technology and utilise coffee grounds in its scarves. The technology creates materials by combining wasted coffee grounds and coffee fibres onto the yarn surface, by going through a low-temperature, high-pressure and energy-saving process,” explains Amirah.

“The use of this technology helps compliment other features of the fabric such as fast-drying and anti-odour – making it beneficial for modest women out there. This is also part of dUCk’s initiative towards being more environmentally conscious,” she adds.

Hijab acceptance and evolution in sports

For the longest time, many sports organisations and competitions did not provide the support and resources needed by Muslim female athletes, who today, still face challenges in this area.

Until 2012, athletes were not allowed to wear the hijab while competing in the majority of Olympic events.

The international governing body for football, FIFA, has softened their stance on banning hijabs and other head coverings since 2014, but FIBA, the international basketball federation, still implements a ban.

“Sports hijab has been portrayed in a more positive light over the years, but hijabi athletes are still fighting for acceptance to this day,” opines Eiroa. “Muslim women are often left out of the conversation when it comes to athletics. We’ve all heard or seen stories where hijabis were banned from playing their sport professionally or at school, regarded as not being athletic or aren’t interested in sports – all because they’re wearing a hijab.”

“But athletes such as champion fencer Ibtihaj Muhammad, boxer Zeina Nassar, and figure skater Zahra Lari are breaking the stereotype. Ibtihaj, in particular, became the first hijabi athlete to compete for America during the Rio Olympics,” she relates.

When it comes to brands, sportswear giants have produced hijabs for activewear, but limitations and restrictions still exist, which is why local brands are focusing on coming up with products that are truly inclusive.

“Through time, hijab has evolved tremendously in making modest women feel more comfortable and experience the life they want, to the fullest,” says Amirah. “Before, limited options of sport-friendly hijabs may have created more challenges for modest women.

“The common hijab materials such as chiffon, cotton, or jersey may not be conducive for workouts as it may not facilitate evaporation, which may cause discomfort and chafing,” she adds. “Now, the sports Hijab has evolved by incorporating revolutionary and innovative elements into activewear through its material, design, and functionality. With that more modest woman get to not only take part in sports but also excel while doing physical activities with peace of mind.”

With more options available in the market, the hope is that women who want to dress modestly feel encouraged to embrace the active lifestyles they’ve always aspired to live.

“During my trip to the Middle East for market research five years ago, there were hardly any women on the streets,” relates Eiroa. “But when I went back a month ago, I noticed that there are a lot more gyms for women, female sports clubs and more, which is great to see.

“Hopefully, with more brands and athletes kickstarting a new discussion about allowing hijab to be accepted and worn in competitions, we’ll be able to welcome a day where we stop focusing on cultural constructs and focus on the person’s talent.”