Raya is just around the corner, and it seems that once again it will be rather muted fashion-wise. Designers are reining in their creations in view of the pandemic – whereby classic and timeless looks continue to take centre stage.
A key message is remembering our family and friends. The idea of balik kampung has been given a different take, as well. Instead of a physical journey, everyone is encouraged to return to their roots when dressing up.
“Reconnecting with our heritage in such a way that makes it near and dear to our hearts even if we’re miles away from home," comments Datuk Jovian Mandagie, regarding his Hari Raya collection.
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“It’s certainly something new that we have all had to adapt to, being so close yet so far away from our loved ones. But the way we rekindle those relationships is what makes it all special and more memorable.”
For Jovian, it is all about balancing old and new. His contemporary ready-to-wear offers a fresh take on our country’s traditional batik motifs, while incorporating trendy detailing and soft pastel colours.
We may not be able to celebrate like we did pre-Covid 19, but nothing is stopping us from upping the style factor. Fashion remains an integral part of Hari Raya – no matter how things have changed.
For Jovian, his collection speaks of a “classic Malay style”. He chose to modernise silhouettes of the baju kurung and kebaya using gathers, front and back pleats, and mermaid skirts, as well as French buttons.
Focusing on timeless looks is something he has always done for Hari Raya – but more so this year. He says it is about reviving the beauty that lies in our traditional wear though, and not so much trying to change it.
“Traditional wear such as the kurung and kebaya carry a significant amount of authenticity, yet they do not shy away from a touch of modernity that represents our country today," he elaborates.
Jovian thinks that one cannot run away from tradition when it comes to Hari Raya dressing. This is why he always goes back to local culture for design inspiration. He feels it can look cool if executed appropriately.
On the subject of comfort – something we can’t avoid in this era of working from home, he says that people will always feel confident if they are at ease in what they are wearing.
“For me, it’s important to dress in what makes you feel comfortable the most without compromising style," he points out, when asked about his personal choices on Hari Raya outfits.
Setting the mood
Syomirizwa Gupta, who is of mixed parentage, is another designer delving deeper into heritage for inspiration. His collection is an ode to the early and current days of Ampang, a city district in Kuala Lumpur.
He took into consideration the current state of the world. He says that while we should not forget to dress up for Hari Raya, we still need to consider the sensitivity of the society, practicality of the design and purposes of the garments.
On his decision to shine a spotlight on Ampang, he explains that it is a continuation of 2020. His designs last year, which were more subdued, celebrated the Bangsar district. This time, they are unmistakeably bold.
“The colours are much brighter as Ampang is also known for its colourful night lights, and prints slightly louder because it represents the fast-moving colourful city life that the people there go through," he explains.
“This year’s collection has a more nostalgic feel to it as I want it to feel like a late 1970s to early 80s vibe, as I myself was brought up in Ampang Jaya in the first seven years of my life. Hence, the upbeat Uji Rashid song was chosen for the video campaign.”
Syomirizwa adds that this is not the first time we will be celebrating Hari Raya while a pandemic is going on – and as such, everyone should be less frustrated (and unsure about the SOPs) and more understanding of the situation.
“We need to be responsible and do our part according to the new dos and don’ts. Last year when we celebrated Raya, we had nothing to compare it to. I remember being at home in my boxers and T-shirt – paranoid to even go to my parent’s house!”
Designer Fern Chua is revisiting traditional motifs for her batik wear this Hari Raya. Her jungle orchid designs additionally feature feminine ruffles, structured pleats, classic cuts and exaggerated sleeves.
“The Orchid Series is an ode to my late father, who taught me how to appreciate and enjoy nature’s extraordinary design," she shares, adding that the opportunity to spend more time with family is now a blessing to be treasured.
Read more: Dissecting the new normal in fashion: 'Stronger, smarter, more innovative'
“I believe that festivities are always meant to be a part of a time for bonding with our family and loved ones. As I grew older and the fact that my father has passed on, I cherish the memories of celebrations and moments spent with him and my family.”
Her latest hand-drawn batik motifs are described as “full of life and nourishing”. The hope here is to portray glamour in an effortless and comforting way – which will better suit the current stay-home lifestyle.
“We couldn’t produce our batik pieces and had to close our shop for most parts of the lockdown. However, it amazes me that even during this time of difficulty, my team and I learnt to adapt to the situation," Chua comments.
“I believe that dressing up always encourages us and uplifts our mood. So no matter how your celebration will be, it definitely helps even though some may not be able to be physically together with their loved ones for this festive season.”
Uplifting designs
Fashion label Behati went viral in 2019 when it unveiled an oversized baju Melayu. It is releasing it again this year for Hari Raya, but with brave new additions that borrow from modern fashion.
Shorts have been introduced, as well as an oversized jubah. Among other “innovations”, is the use of songket fabric – not as a samping, but tailored with additional lining and transformed into a unisex top.
“I really treasure our Malaysian identity in what we wear. Our traditional wear tells a great story. I’ve always felt lucky to be born with so many cultures surrounding me," says Behati’s founder, Kel Wen.
He reveals that he actually designed the collection before the pandemic happened. Forty percent of it was released last year, and the remaining for this Hari Raya. His hope is that the unconventional creations can cheer people up.
“What’s timeless about our traditional wear is the elegance in loose fitting garments, the rich fabrics, as well as the detailed craftsmanship that I still feel is very current in fashion right now," Kel Wen comments.
Read more: How has the cheongsam fared in the 21st century? Malaysian designers weigh in
There is even one called Lockdown 2.0 Kurung. More than just a piece of garment, it is meant to represent the happiness of wearers despite being isolated from their loved ones during the pandemic.
Founder Zura Zabidi says that she takes pride in embracing the baju kurung as a traditional clothing despite its evolution over the years. She believes in its versatility.
“We see a baju kurung as a garment that embodies decency, appropriateness and its classic look. Injected with a minimal modern twist, our baju kurung in our collection is definitely suitable as an essential wear."
“The aspect includes the colour, shape, and the littlest details without altering too much on how classic a traditional clothing should be, ” she elaborates, about respecting classic designs like the baju kurung.
On her expectations for the upcoming Hari Raya celebrations, Zura says, “Perhaps, this Aidilfitri will be celebrated with better precautions. Hopefully, we will see the light shining through for a better future, together."
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