Despite us living in a humid environment, dry skin is a common and frequently overlooked problem, fuelled by fast-paced lifestyles and daily habits.
High humidity levels naturally hydrate the skin by preventing water loss.
However, excessive sweating in the heat, showering in hot water, using harsh soaps, prolonged exposure to air conditioning in offices and homes, and ageing, are among the key factors that strip the skin of its natural moisture, leading to a damaged barrier and a dull, flaky look.
How you care for your skin can greatly affect your appearance, confidence and self-esteem.
Locking in water
A plethora of moisturisers are available in the market to combat dry skin, but it’s best to get a product – lotion, ointment or cream – that can lock in water.
One ingredient that is highly effective in retaining water is ceramide.
Ceramides are fats or lipids that are found in skin cells; they make up roughly 40-50% of our outer skin layer, or epidermis.
They function as “cement” to hold skin cells together, protecting against environmental irritants and locking in moisture.
“Our skin is like a brick wall and these bricks need ‘cement’ to hold them together.
“One of the ingredients in this ‘cement’ is ceramide, which has a moisturising effect on the skin.
“As you get older, ceramide production decreases, so the skin becomes dehydrated, drier and may start to crack – this increases the risk of developing eczema, especially among those in their 70s and 80s.
“They may start complaining about itchiness, even though there is no skin rash.
“By just applying moisturiser, the itchiness will improve tremendously – it’s that simple,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Benji Teoh.
For those with eczema, some mistakenly believe that applying topical medication reduces the itch, but this is not the case.
He explains: “The active ingredient, i.e. steroid in the medication, doesn’t reduce the itch – it only reduces inflammation to speed up healing.
“It’s actually the moisturiser in the medication that helps soothe the itch.
“Some moisturisers may include ingredients that have anti-inflammatory properties, so much so that they work as an emulsifier.”
Besides ceramide, many skincare products also contain petroleum jelly – a purified, semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons primarily derived from petroleum.
Often listed as petrolatum, it is also highly effective in moisturising and creating a protective barrier for dry or damaged skin, chapped lips and minor wounds.
“If you want to purely lock the moisture down, ointment form is the best, i.e. 99% petroleum jelly.
“Or you can opt for synthetic ointments made of silicone, which also helps retain moisture,” says Dr Teoh.
While you can technically use facial products on your body, it is often not cost-effective.
On the other hand, many body lotions and creams are too thick, oily or heavily scented for the face, which can lead to clogged pores, acne or irritation.
Whichever facial moisturiser you choose, make sure it’s non-comedogenic, i.e. doesn’t block the pores.
Applying oils and sunscreen
Based on social media trends, oils are touted as a popular moisturiser in skincare, but Dr Teoh cautions against this.
“Remember that Malaysia is hot and humid, and not everyone works in an air-conditioned environment, so if you apply oil, you may not be able to tolerate the stickiness.
“Petroleum jelly actually locks in moisture better than ‘liquidy’ oils.
“For patients with very dry skin, that should be the only thing they should be using,” he says.
As we get older, our skin becomes thinner and drier because of cell deterioration and hormonal changes.
While acne is a common issue for teens and young adults, pigmentation is a problem particularly among older Asian ladies.
“When ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun hits your skin, it causes oxidative stress and inflammation, which will then expedite the ageing process and cause pigmentary changes.
“Our Asian skin is prone to pigmentation, so using sunscreen from a young age helps protect against this.
“But if you don’t use sunscreen, it’s not entirely wrong, especially if you’re inside the house and not sitting by the window.
“In our world, there is no 100% right and wrong – it depends on what you’re looking for and how you want to interpret the data that you see,” says Dr Teoh.
Asians generally have more melanin (pigment) in their skin than Caucasians.
Melanin acts as a natural sunscreen, absorbing UV radiation and providing better protection against DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) damage.
He adds: “If you (as an Asian) work as a labourer and are out in the sun, your risk of skin cancer is lower than Caucasians.
“When Caucasians see the sun, they embrace it, but we will run and hide!”
What is your concern?
One of the biggest misconceptions about skincare is that what works for one person works equally well for another, leading people to buy products based on recommendations from their friends.
Dr Teoh points out: “When you buy skincare, the first thing to ask yourself is ‘what is my concern?’
“If your concern is pigmentation, look for products that will help with that.
“But if you’re a young lady with not much skin problems, use simple skincare to maintain your skin.
“For older people with lots of wrinkles, find ingredients that can target these concerns, rather than listening to your friend – don’t apply creams just for the sake of applying them.”
Another common misconception is that using a toner is mandatory after cleansing.
A lot of toners are astringents, usually alcohol-based products designed to remove excess oil and tighten pores.
“Toners dry out the skin, and most of them now come with added ingredients to get the moisturising effect, which is already available in the moisturiser.
“A lot of people also believe toners shrink the pores – they do not.
“In the past, people used soap and hard water to wash the face, and when they did that, it left a scummy and sticky residue, so toners were originally designed to remove this.
“Nowadays, the water quality and cleansers are better and leave the skin clean,” he says.
Ultimately, healthy living and good genes give you healthy skin.
So, eat a balanced diet, cut out added sugar, get adequate sleep, drink lots of water and manage your stress levels.
