If the walls could talk, the old buildings in Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur would leave you spellbound with their colourful tales.
A new design and architecture book, New In The Old: Chinatown Kuala Lumpur, offers readers a glimpse into this rich cultural past and old city charm, while highlighting the area’s new businesses and a younger generation of owners, the adaptive reuse of old buildings, the food and vibrant culture of Chinatown.
Written by architects Scarlet Koon, Aw Siew Bee and architect-academic Robert Powell, with photography by Lin Ho, the book spotlights 23 historical landmarks, 25 food highlights and 25 features in the area.
This book is a handy companion to have in your travel bag, if you plan to wander around the capital’s Chinatown area, which has gone through rapid changes of its own during the pandemic lull.
“We started out focusing on the features, but we couldn’t do a book about Chinatown without including the historical places and culture that make up the city. Therefore, we decided to showcase the new and the old side by side,” says Koon, who also edited New In The Old together with Dr Tan Loke Mun.
“The selection for the features were mainly based on the architectural design value and the innovative design and adaptation of the building. We wanted to show good examples of the restorations taking place here. We included restorations in buildings and shoplots of historical value, such as Kafei Dian, which was formerly the post office, highlighting the new in the old,” she elaborates.
The scope of New In The Old, encompassing Jalan Petaling, Jalan Sultan, Jalan Tun HS Lee and Jalan Panggong in Kuala Lumpur, explores the palimpsest of the old city.
This is also the area location of Merdeka 118 tower, the second tallest building in the world after Burj Khalifa in Dubai and the tallest building in South-East Asia.
Merdeka 118, which is on track for completion later this year, is a reminder of development and modernism in an ever-changing city.
A story of change
“The city is undergoing a renaissance. When the city was first founded, it was a bustling hub for trade. But as more locals moved to the suburbs, the area became desolate and run down, turned into a knockoff market. However, in recent years, we saw a new generation coming back to the area to set up businesses and attract a younger crowd to explore and appreciate the area again.
“Arguably, the first one to do so was Merchant’s Lane, followed by several hidden bars. With the construction of Merdeka 118, we believe that the area is undergoing a major change, and will continue to change. We wanted to document, record, and showcase the area in a particular moment in time – its golden era if you will,” says Koon.
Places of interest highlighted in this book include Victoria Institution, the oldest secondary school in KL (both its current school ground located along Jalan Hang Tuah/Jalan Hang Jebat, as well as its its original building on Jalan Tun HS Lee, which now houses the National Department For Culture and Arts); the 100-year-old Kwong Fook Wing Tailor Shop, whose clientele included Malaysia’s second prime minister Tun Abdul Razak; and Sin Sze Si Ya Temple, the oldest Chinese temple in KL, founded by Yap Ah Loy.
The temple sits at an angle from the roads, with only a small shophouse entrance to the side. The remaining space in the block is filled by shophouses that are in line with the roads.
The buildings and landmarks in this book are chosen based on their historical significance in the founding and development of the city.
A visual document
In putting together this book, the team made several trips to Chinatown for photography shoots and to talk to the people living and working in the area. They also went through archives and libraries for information and old photographs.
“Photography is a huge part of the publication as it really brings the whole book to life and showcases the vibrancy of the city. I worked closely with Lin Ho on our photography trips around the area to capture the images for the book. I believe the pictures really illustrate the incredible changes to the city that feels foreign yet familiar at the same time,” says Koon.
It was an invaluable experience for her to explore the place and have conversations with the business owners and people living there.
She notes that the people they met in Chinatown all have an affinity to the area, even after they expanded their businesses and moved elsewhere, or even those that have not lived in the area before.
“Many of the hawkers in the area have been there for many generations. Even as they move out and expand to different parts of the city, they still maintain their first shop in Chinatown, insisting on using the same materials and techniques to produce the same quality of food as before.
“Their dedication to their craft is admirable, and I am so grateful to have met them and heard their stories. On the other hand, most of the owners of the featured locations in the book are the younger generation, who grew up with a very different image of Chinatown. They chose to set up shop in the area because of the historical ties and significance of the place,” she says.
New In The Old spotlights some of these conversations with the owners, providing an in-depth and enlightening look at their motivations and aspirations.
Even BookXcess has set up home here, a flagship bookstore at RexKL, at the spot where the original VIP cinema seating area once was. It has floor-to-ceiling bookcases as well as reading areas for the public.
A stone’s throw away, you can find Kwai Chai Hong, a rejuvenated stretch of the laneway between Lorong Panggung and Jalan Petaling, that saw the restoration of the facade of 10 heritage shophouses and regular themed public art installations and arts events held here.
“There are many different types of renovation done (that are featured) across the book, from retaining the original structure (Jao Tim, ChoCha Foodstore), the use of recycled materials (Mingle Café, Mingle Highstreet), places that highlight the local culture (Concubine KL, Warong Old China), and places with a more modern renovation (Niko Neko Matcha 2.0, Small Shifting Space). Each featured location has unique features that complement the area,” says Koon.
The book, released by Malaysian publishing company Atelier International, which is headed by Dr Tan, also has a section to discover the streets in Chinatown. There are three walking guides centered along the main roads of importance, namely, Jalan Panggong and Jalan Hang Jebat (Guide 1), Jalan Petaling and Jalan Sultan (Guide 2) and Jalan Tun HS Lee (Guide 3).
These guides include featured locations, historical landmarks and food highlights, showcasing the new businesses alongside the old landmarks.
Each guide is an approximate 30 minute walk, not including the time spent visiting the individual places.
“With the country’s borders opening recently, the book is definitely timely to welcome tourists back to Malaysia and showcase our beautiful city and culture. Through this book, we aim to record the city in its renaissance and to serve as a journal for people to enjoy and explore the city for themselves.
“Although Chinatown might seem bright and shiny now, it still has the gems and character of the past woven into its very fabric. My wish is that people can take the book, use it as their own personal guide and explore the city in a new light. The book has something for everyone, from history and food, to architecture and design. We hope that with the book, people are able to find a piece of Chinatown to call their own,” she concludes.
More info: here.
Already a subscriber? Log in
Get 20% OFF The Star Digital Access
Cancel anytime. Ad-free. Unlimited access with perks.
