You can easily miss Ko’s nondescript signage and upstairs location if you’re not familiar with Taman Tun Dr Ismail’s suburb in Kuala Lumpur. Even then, we drove right past despite looking out for it.
Hidden in plain sight among a slew of ground-level eateries along the same street, the first hint of Ko’s distinctiveness was evident when we went up the stairs leading to the restaurant.
The walls were covered with Taiwan-centric newspaper and magazine articles, and a long backlit bar snagged our attention once we entered the main dining area.
The elongated space with Instagram-worthy nooks and corners is designed in such a way to cater to dining groups of different sizes. There’s also some seats on the shaded balcony adorned with a lush vertical garden.
The artful use of Chinese paper fans and lanterns as decorations, unusual pendant lights, two glass-top tables that encased mahjong sets, and colourful wall murals together with an eclectic collection of dining tables and chairs render quirky charm and an inviting vibe to this cafe from the outset.
During weekdays, set lunches from RM18 upwards are available. This includes a bowl of soup, a drink and pickles with a choice of main course. Certain mains also come with rice or noodles.
We opted for Beef Wrapped Scallion Pancakes (RM13) for a quintessential Taiwanese food experience, and we weren’t disappointed. The crisp, savoury and flaky scallion pancakes echoed similar taste and texture to roti canai. Rolled up and stuffed with beef strips and cucumber julienne, the delicious pancakes hit the spot for us.
Our second appetiser of Fried Tofu with Pickled Cabbage (RM10) was presumably a tamer spin on Taiwan’s infamous stinky tofu. Whilst the fried beancurd’s crisp and soft textures proved agreeable, the pickled cabbage tasted raw and could do with longer pickling time.
We sought consolation in the Dumplings in Chilli Oil (RM18). Doused in soya sauce laced with chilli oil, the scrumptious minced chicken and cabbage dumplings got our attention, and we looked forward to the rice and noodle courses.
Hints of five spice, especially star anise and cloves along with pickled mustard greens ensured the Taiwanese Beef Noodles (RM28) lived up to expectations. Chopped coriander and scallion lent aromatic fragrance and fresh sharpness to the toothsome noodles. We liked how the firm and springy strands soaked up the deeply flavourful broth; a nice textural complement to the tender beef shank slices.
This place also serves a mean Dry Scallion Noodles, available in the night menu. Banking on scallions (spring onions) doused in hot oil to bring out the fragrance and umami, this dish seems simple enough to make but takes expertise to dial up the flavours. Ko manages to do a good job of it.
We fell in love with Ko’s Three Cup Chicken (RM23) at first bite. Soya sauce, sesame oil, and rice vinegar in equal measures along with fresh basil defined this winsome dish of superbly succulent chicken. Best savoured with noodles or rice, the flavour is pleasingly mild which is good to know if you’re not a fan of sesame oil.
While the crispiness of Ko’s Deep-Fried XXL Chicken (RM24) was on-point, we felt the boneless fillet was rather bland as the dusting of mala and five spice powder on it was negligible. Luckily, the house-made chilli sauce saved the day.
Intrigued by our dessert of Aiyu Jelly (RM8) with pineapple chunks and lychee in a watery sweet broth, I did a quick online search on aiyu jelly. Even though the word aiyu purportedly originated from the Qing dynasty, a Taiwanese historian claimed aiyu was named after a Fujianese merchant’s daughter who helped sell the jelly after her father discovered the seeds of a palm-size fruit of a creeping fig plant turned gelatinous when rubbed together.
It seems the most popular way to enjoy aiyu jelly is serving it with subtly sweetened lemon juice, while others prefer it with syrup and fruits like what we sampled at Ko.
Besides the lunch sets, Ko’s dinner menu offers slightly different items such as Thai Basil Pop Corn Chicken and Braised Beef Gua Bao for starters, and more choices for mains such as Dry Scallion Noodles and Braised Minced Chicken Rice.
It’s also a great place to chill by the bar for cocktails and snack on Taiwanese good eats in the evenings as the ambience at night gives a different feel altogether.
KO Restaurant & Bar
10A, Jalan Datuk Sulaiman,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
011-6084 4563. Business hours: Mon & Wed: 12pm-10pm
Tuesdays closed
Thurs, Sun: 12pm-12am
Fri & Sat: 12pm-1am
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