Wild caught snapper.
If you’re eating at the restobar Shhhbuuuleee in RexKL, expect the unexpected from chef Mui Kai Quan.
The best takes from our “feast” of small plates for me were the luscious dry-aged Sea Bream, Pig Head Terrine, Stuffed Quail with Glutinous Rice, Red Prawns marinated with aged Shao Xing wine, and the Tsukune with chicken and oyster patty.
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We also tried the Tea Smoked Chitose Tomatoes, Tempura Pig Ears, Wild Caught Snapper with fish maw and dried seafood cooked in Pumpkin Congee, and Thick-cut Smoked Gyutan.
Tempura pig ears go well with sake.
These were all small sharing plates, brilliantly executed by Mui who drew inspiration from his Chinese roots with an East Asian slant.
There was lots of oomph from the glistening slices of Sea Bream, smooth with a little crunch, as I tasted the subtle vinaigrette made with chrysanthemum vinegar and fermented cucumber juice. Pickled chrysanthemum petals beneath, dill on top and the charred skin of the fish were swoon-worthy highlights.
We also had the much talked about Pig Head Terrine. The nose, ears, cheeks, jowl and tongue were brined for 48 hours, simmered in stock with spices and herbs. The meat and gelatinous parts were picked out, mixed with fermented mustard greens and pickled red chillies, then chilled and sliced.
Tsukune – chicken and oyster patty.
I loved the terrine slices which had a spicy and tangy lift from a vinaigrette of Szechuan pepper oil, chilli oil, vinegar and lemon juice.
The juicy Tea-Smoked Chitose Tomatoes with salted kumquat, sea grapes and lemon dressing offered a defining, piquant contrast to the terrine.
Sweet Argentinian Red Prawns drew flavours from aged Shao Xing wine, soy sauce and vinegar. The heads were deep-fried and re-assembled with the rest of the prawns, drizzled with Chinese celery oil and topped with pickled garlic, shallots and seaweed.
Tsukune delivered a delicious chicken and oyster patty sitting on chicken jus and egg yolk puree, topped with Tempura Shungiku (leaf crown daisy).
Stuffed quail with glutinous rice.
The Tempura Pig Ears, served with a mushroom tartare dip, had a delightful crunch. This called for sake to be brought out that also paired well with the earlier dishes.
Stuffed Quail with Glutinous Rice brought to mind the classic Eight Treasure Duck. Such a scrumptious quail, bursting with its stuffing of offal, chestnut, mushrooms, black Chinese olives and jus. Mui did a marvellous job with this roasted, stuffed quail.
The heaviest “small plate” of the evening was the grilled Wild Caught Snapper (from Sekinchan) atop the pumpkin congee, cooked with barley, dried oyster, squid, duck ham, pumpkin and fish stock.
Red koji ice-cream.
Salted green chilli and fermented mustard greens gave a tangy side to this flavourful congee that was a textural delight.
I found the Thick-cut Smoked Gyutan or beef tongue, served with a side of edamame, slightly tough and chewy, and would have preferred it to be thinner, but my dinner companion enjoyed it.
The unique flavours of the Red Koji Ice-Cream with a salted plum drizzle, puffed rice and dragonfruit defied the senses. I liked this heady and refreshing ice-cream while the refreshing Oolong Ice-Cream, a safer bet, sat on a lightly sweet broth of wintermelon (braised in tea), pomelo and yuzu jelly.
Sea Bream.
The Shhhbuuuleee experience would not be complete without highballs such as Sake Negroni of Karakuchi, Bitter Bianco and Amaretto (my favourite).
The seemingly harmless Lavender kicked in with aromatised wine, gin, lavender, violet and tonic.
The menu changes from time to time and while some of the dishes may sound like they are straight from an episode of Fear Factor, I assure you the ardent foodie will be rewarded for your adventurous palate!
