RUKHA: Catching snowtrout from the Hara Chhu River to prepare Nya-Dosem, a traditional smoked fish delicacy, has long been part of the Rukha community's cultural heritage.
Traditionally, men dominated river fishing, while local women had limited direct involvement. The introduction of warm-water fish farming is modernising this age-old tradition, offering women a safer and more sustainable path to financial independence.
Athang Gewog, which comprises 26 villages, 198 households and 793 residents, has historically relied on the Hara Chhu River for sustenance.
Recognising its cultural significance, His Majesty granted the community fishing rights along a designated stretch of the river in 2010. However, illegal fishing practices and environmental degradation led to a steep decline in fish harvests, from 19.51 metric tonnes (MT) in 2009 to just 0.17MT in 2022.
To address these challenges, the Harachhu Capture Fishery Management Group (HCFMG) was formed in 2010. Its third management plan was handed over to the community on October 19, 2023, to ensure sustainable fishing. The group has 66 members, including 16 women and 50 men.
Warm-water fish farming aims to revive local livelihoods, empower women, improve food security and nutrition, and reduce Bhutan's dependence on imported fish.
Supported by UNDP's Small Grants Programme and the Wangdue Administration in 2024, the project has been fully operational since April 2025. It benefits eight households through 11 ponds with a total capacity of 6,500 cubic metres and aims to reduce dependence on river fishing.
In Rukha Olep village, eight households, comprising four women and four men, manage the ponds. Nearby Samthang village has five ponds, each holding between 900 and 3,000 fish. The ponds vary in size, and the fingerlings are sourced from Gelephu.
Dorji Dema, 43, of Rukha Olep, said women traditionally had little role in making Nya-Dosem, a practice long dominated by men. Fish farming now allows them to participate in the trade.
“We cannot go near the river for fear of being swept away. With the ponds near our homes, we only have to monitor the continuous flow of water and feed the fish twice a day,” she said.
Gyeltshen, 63, said the strong currents of the Hara Chhu make fishing risky for women and people over 50, leaving the task largely to younger, able-bodied men. With ponds available, women and older people can raise fish more safely without having to venture into the river.
The village adopted fish farming two years ago, opening up new opportunities for women to earn an income by making and selling Nya-Dosem. The trade also helps preserve the community's indigenous fish-processing practices and cultural heritage.
“I have two children in college, and the income from selling Nya-Dosem helps me cover their college expenses. We have also learned how to make Nya-Dosem ourselves,” Dorji Dema said.
“We no longer have to depend entirely on the river for fish. This can help protect the river's fish population while sustaining our livelihood.”
Nima Zam, 23, earned Nu 40,000 from selling Nya-Dosem last year. The delicacy sells for Nu 1,000 a piece in the market.
“With the money earned, I am able to buy myself and my family what I want,” she said.
“Nya-Dosem is part of our tradition and livelihood. With fish farming, we hope to have a more reliable supply of fish and continue this tradition.”
Chokila, 62, a former gup of Athang Gewog, said a steady supply of fish would allow more Nya-Dosem to be produced.
“With a steady supply of fish, we can produce more Nya-Dosem, increase our income and pass this traditional skill on to the younger generation,” he said. - Kunsel/ANN
