Kuala Kubu Baru

Kuala Kubu Baru makes for more than just a pit stop en route to popular hill station Fraser's Hill. The town's rich history and quaint setting will entice travellers to stay for just a little bit longer.

Kuala Kubu Baru, or KKB as it is fondly known, is often thought of by travellers as a sleepy town in Selangor, but a deeper look into its origins reveals a history that is both enriching and charming.

It is located approximately 70km from the capital city of Kuala Lumpur and is a popular rest area for people heading to one of Malaysia's favourite hill stations, Fraser's Hill, which is a 45-minute drive away from KKB.

The great flood and the white crocodile

KKB began as a mining town in the 18th century, originally located between two tributaries of the Selangor River.  In its heyday, it was the second biggest town in Selangor. It also served as a fort for Raja Mahadi and Syed Mashor when they fought against Tengku Kudin’s army during the Selangor civil war from 1867 to 1874. A fortress (kubu in the Malay language) was constructed in the area before the British colonial powers took over the town.

However, tragedy struck in 1883 when a heavy downpour caused the Kuala Kubu dam to burst open and flood the town, affecting its tin mining activities and killing 33 people, including the then District Officer Sir Cecil Ranking. Thirty-eight homes were also destroyed.

Ranking had supposedly shot a white crocodile which was regarded as the river guardian despite being told not to do so. According to local beliefs, his act had caused the calamity to occur and all that was left of him was his hand. Ranking’s hand was interred in a grave at the Kuala Kubu Rest House. Since then, the old town has been known as Ampang Pecah (Broken Dam), and locals termed the flooding as the Kuala Kubu Tragedy.

After the incident, the British government established a new town, calling it Kuala Kubu Baru (“baru” meaning new in the Malay language) in an area close by.

Another tragedy struck in 1951 when Sir Henry Gurney, the then British High Commissioner to Malaya, was assassinated by communist insurgents who ambushed his Rolls Royce along the Jalan Kuala Kubu Baru-Fraser’s Hill road.

Sightseeing in KKB

KKB has retained most of its charm with traditional and quaint shophouses, a 1930s clock tower and an old fire station.  A Buddhist temple that survived the flood was refurbished in the 1980s, and is also another attraction, while Cecil Ranking's grave might be a stop for those interested in KKB's history.  A monument was also built in the town to commemorate the KKB flood.

Colonial shophouses still make up most of KKB's architectural landscape, spanning from the 1920s to the 1980s, which makes it ideal for pleasant walking tours.  Its grid-like streets are made up of sundry shops, eateries, a traditional barber and even a former cinema, converted into an entertainment centre.  Visitors can also enjoy the cool weather as KKB is surrounded by lush trees and tropical jungle.

Typical tourist attractions that can be explored in KKB include an art gallery and the old railway station.   There are a few budget hotels, a golf course, bus terminal and train station but not much else exists in terms of infrastructure and facilities.

The town is hardly what you call hectic, but there is a fair amount of activity that goes on.  Locals go about their daily routine and there are plenty of restaurants to sample local Malaysian food.  One place to enjoy home-styled Hainanese cooking in a traditional shophouse is Sun Sun Seng Nam.  The old Malaya style restaurant still maintains its old fixtures and signages, and customers can choose to sit in the traditional wooden booths to enjoy famous Hainanese dishes.  Another spot to please the hungry traveller is Teng Wun bakery, famous for its kaya puffs and cupcakes.

KKB: Gateway to outdoor thrills

KKB is located in the Hulu Selangor District, a countryside area that is popular with outdoor enthusiasts as the natural surroundings are dotted with waterfalls, rivers and hiking trails: perfect for whitewater rafting activities and jungle walks.

As such visitors to KKB will find plenty of outdoor activities with which to keep them busy, just beyond its borders. They can use KKB as a base to chill out and relax after enjoying an activity-filled day.

Nature lovers who enjoy hikes to waterfalls can make the trip to the famous Sungai Chilling waterfalls, some 14km away from the town.

Getting there

KKB is easily accessible by public transport from Kuala Lumpur. KTM Komuter’s northern run from the city reaches The Kuala Kubu Baru Railway station, which is stationed just north of KKB.

Board the train from the capital city and alight at the Rawang KTM Komuter station to switch trains (Platform 2 for trains to KKB).  Alternatively, hop on to one of the buses heading towards Tanjung Malim from Rawang, and get off in KKB.

Taxi rides are about RM5 for the 3km journey into KKB.