Chewing over move to keep Penang food local

WOULD a bowl of, say, Penang asam laksa taste different if it was cooked by foreign workers?

Some say “yes” and this had prompted Penang Island City Council (MBPP) to act.

The city council has identified 13 types of hawker fare as the state’s iconic street food which foreign cooks, hired at stalls, are not allowed to make.

If the proposal is approved by MBPP, the rule will be enforced at the beginning of next year.

This is not new; foreign workers are not allowed to cook local fare in food courts and hawker centres run by local authorities in Penang since 2016.

But this time, the ban is set to be expanded to cover privately- owned hawker stalls, food courts and coffeeshops.

The 13 types of food are nasi lemak, asam laksa, pasembor, mee sotong, char kuey teow, kuey teow soup, Hokkien mee, curry mee, wantan mee, loh bak, chee cheong fun, char koay kak and orh chien (oyster omelette).

The ban will not affect cafes, restaurants, hotels and franchises.

Kudos to MBPP, which has been pivotal in transforming and upgrading the hawker food industry over the years.

Those with discerning taste buds will say that even the simple act of blanching noodles requires skill to get the consistency and texture right.

It takes know-how and familiarity to get the mix of sauces in, say, a bowl of wantan mee down pat and indeed, the Penang iteration of the noodle dish stands apart from the type prepared by hawkers in Klang Valley, Melaka or Johor.

But implementing and enforcing a ban on foreigners as main cooks can prove challenging.

Char kuey teow is among the 13 types of hawker fare listed as the state’s iconic street food that foreigners may soon be barred from cooking. — Filepic

The practical realities faced by hawkers and economic impact on consumers cannot be ignored.

Boon Kang, a Penang native now residing in the United States, highlights a crucial point in this debate.

He said food authenticity was paramount, regardless of whether it was prepared by locals or foreigners.

His stance reflects a broader consumer sentiment – quality and hygiene are key determinants of whether customers will return to a stall.

If foreign cooks can deliver authenticity in taste and maintain high hygiene standards, Boon argued that they should not be excluded due to their nationality.

On the other side of the equation, a nasi lemak seller shed light on the practical reasons behind hiring foreign workers.

His experience underscores how cost considerations drive hiring practices.

Foreign workers often accept lower wages and are willing to work longer hours.

For instance, a Myanmar national willingly takes RM60 for 12 hours of work.

Unlike local staff who might expect regular monthly payments, foreign workers are often content with a different arrangement, such as being paid daily or weekly, which aligns better with the fluctuating needs of hawker stalls.

This flexibility helps hawkers manage their costs more effectively, keeping prices down for consumers.

There is also the argument that some dishes out of the 13 listed food items could be exempted from the ban.

Soup-based dishes, chee cheong fun and nasi lemak involve steps where the fundamental ingredients are often prepared by locals.

The foreigners only do the “final assembly or finishing touches”.

And then there is the all-too-familiar narrative – the children of hawkers, despite their parents’ hard work and culinary prowess, often shy away from taking up the family business.

The prospect of continuing a legacy of whipping up beloved dishes like Hokkien mee or kuey teow soup is overshadowed by the allure of more prestigious professions.

Likewise, hawker-parents themselves might be reluctant to pass on their trade to their children.

To them, it is a path filled with difficulties that, while potentially lucrative, is demanding.

It requires long hours spent over hot stoves, standing for extended periods and working outside the conventional nine-to-five framework.

The physical toll and lack of job benefits like medical insurance – common in larger corporations – can make the profession seem less appealing to the younger generation.

They do not have paid sick leave or annual leave and have to take time off when they fall sick. Each day the stall remains closed is income lost.

The new proposed policy is indeed a well-intentioned effort to preserve the authenticity of Penang’s iconic hawker fare and support local employment.

But it also presents practical challenges, particularly in balancing authenticity with the economic realities faced by hawkers.

A balanced approach is essential, especially in considering exemptions for certain dishes and addressing the broader issues of labour and generational shifts in the hawker food sector.