Keeping the flames alive

Aging owners: Charcoal and firewood trader Tan Ah Boay checking supply at his shop along Lebuh Bakau in George Town. Hotels, restaurants and hawkers keep him in business. — CHAN BOON KAI/The Star

GEORGE TOWN: Frying char koay teow over charcoal has long been a hallmark of authenticity, just as wood-fired ovens give pizza its distinctive kick.

In both cases, charcoal and firewood are essential to the flavour diners crave.