Visitors judging the tastiest bosou in a competition held in Kiulu, a sub-district in Tuaran.
SOME meat, with smoked and pulverised buah keluak, a nut from the kepayang tree. Add salt, maybe some fruits like bananas and pineapples and place them all in a sealed jar to ferment.
And you have bosou, a tangy dish unique to the Kadazundusun people of Sabah.
It may not be known to many but now, a group of women is leading a charge to elevate the ancient tribal recipe, while pioneering change.
These women comprise the Sabah Bosou Entrepreneurs Association, a select group of only seven members led by their president Jiliah Situn.
Sabah Bosou Entrepreneurs Association president Jiliah.
Jiliah’s passion for bosou goes beyond mere tradition; it is a commitment to heritage and community empowerment, a journey that began long before she assumed the role of president.
Growing up surrounded by the rich flavours and aromas of bosou, she developed a deep appreciation for this traditional delicacy.
“My grandmother and mother’s simple lifestyle in the kampung shaped my perspective on bosou,” Jiliah said with a nostalgic smile.
“Every weekend, as a young girl at the age of seven or eight, I would return to the kampung. As we sat on the veranda, my grandparents would ask if I had eaten.
“If I had not, my grandmother would whip up a hearty serving of rice accompanied by bosou – be it fish, meat, or vegetable bosou.”
In those moments, bosou was not just a meal but a symbol of sustenance, identity, and heritage for Jiliah and her Kadazandusun community.
“This simple dish is enough to satiate one’s hunger completely.
Vegetable bosou.
“As the Dusun people say, ‘bosou noh napakasi dia’, which translates to ‘you are alive because of bosou’,” said Jiliah, who headed the Sabah Archive’s Records Centre Section.
As her perspective evolved, she realised bosou’s potential as a force for economic growth and community development.
She then embarked on a journey to elevate bosou from a simple dish to a thriving industry, believing that it could bring positive change to her community.
She knows that not everyone, particularly the younger generation, shares her enthusiasm for bosou because of its distinctive aroma and appearance, which they often find less appealing.
To raise awareness about bosou, Jiliah organised a competition in 2017 for the most delicious fish and vegetable bosou through the Dusun Liwan Association, which she also leads.
The contest was held in Ranau district and received overwhelming response.
Fish bosou.
The same year, bosou gained international recognition when a Unesco representative took notice of it.
For Jiliah, the UN interest was an acknowledgment of bosou and how important it is to preserve cultural heritage and promote sustainable indigenous food.
After the competition, many people started making bosou and selling it by the roadside.
“In 2018, in conjunction with World Indigenous Peoples’ Day, we proposed organising a statewide bosou competition.
“I was given the green light, and that was the starting point for the establishment of the Sabah Bosou Entrepreneurs Association.
“We registered the association and organised a statewide competition in Kiulu district, with 60 bosou dishes from various districts in the competition,” she said.
She then spearheaded initiatives to promote bosou as a profitable product and empower entrepreneurs across Sabah. They studied interests and preferences to establish the commercial value of the product.
“Our objective is to preserve our cultural heritage while creating opportunities for our community.
“We aim to help bosou entrepreneurs navigate the complexities of production and marketing,” Jiliah explained.
One of Jiliah’s most ambitious projects is the establishment of a Bosou Cottage Industry – a venture that promises to revolutionise bosou production and elevate its to new heights.
She envisions a future where bosou is not just a traditional delicacy, but a sought-after commodity in the global market.
“The Bosou Cottage Industry represents more than just a business venture. It’s a symbol of our resilience,” Jiliah said.
“By creating a centralised production hub with complete facilities, we can ensure consistency in fermentation and quality control, ultimately positioning bosou as a premium product.”
However, Jiliah’s journey is not without its challenges.
To set up a cottage industry, financial resources are needed.
“With the establishment of a cottage industry, standardised procedures for bosou production can be implemented, fostering collaboration with communities providing raw materials.
“The association has done its best to introduce bosou at state, national, and international levels. However, without certification from Mardi (Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute), there is limited room for further bosou development,” Jiliah said.
All her work for bosou has taken a lot from her and she is even considering early retirement from her full-time job in the civil service to dedicate more time and energy to bosou entrepreneurship.
“I want to focus on building Bosou Cottage Industry and nurturing the next generation of entrepreneurs, ensuring that our traditions continue to thrive.
“I have obtained a stall at KDCA, and my goal is to raise at least RM150,000 through a year-long fundraising effort by selling bosou and a variety of traditional fusion dishes,” said Jiliah.
“This initiative kicks off in March and will continue throughout the year.”
As she looks to the future, Jiliah remains optimistic about the impact bosou can have on her community and beyond.
“Bosou is more than just a dish – it’s a story of resilience, innovation, and community pride,” she smiles.
“I believe we can write a new chapter in the history of bosou, one that elevates our traditions even higher.”
