Matriarch’s stall a scent-sational utopia for coffee lovers

Freshly brewed: H’ng making coffee on her charcoal stove at her stall in Taman Free School, Penang. — ZHAFARAN NASIB/The Star

GEORGE TOWN: Keeping it simple and sticking to tried-and-true methods have been the model of success for matriarch H’ng Mooi Gim, 80.

For generations, her persistence in sticking to the old ways has helped maintain the flavours of morning coffee and toast at her stall next to the wet market located nearby Taman Free School flats here.

For six days a week, the stall bustles with activity as the nutty scent of charcoal-brewed beverage brings in coffee lovers.

“I am at my stall daily (except Thursdays) from 6am to prepare for the opening at 6.45am. I have been brewing coffee here for the past 45 years,” said H’ng.

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“My son’s wife helps to toast the bread over an aluminium charcoal stove and prepares half-boiled eggs while three other workers attend to customers.”

Her son, 52-year-old Chow Hun Meng, also helps at the stall.

H’ng said when she was young, she worked for a few years at a construction site but quit after realising the job was not for her.

“I have tried my hands at selling curry noodles and yong tau foo from a pushcart, but that venture didn’t pan out either.

“In 1979, I took a chance and set up my coffee stall at Taman Free School.

“I began using charcoal to make my coffee, and I’ve stuck with it ever since.

“I find that charcoal burns well and helps with boiling water. Charcoal fire also imparts a smoky taste and enhances the flavour of coffee compared to gas.

“I built the charcoal cement stove myself based on my experience while working at the construction site.

“It may look ugly, but it serves its purpose and can accommodate up to three kettles at a time,” she added.

After over 45 years, H’ng is considering retirement and handing over the business to her son.

“I have been at the stall almost daily for more than half of my life, and the only significant break I had was during the Covid-19 movement restrictions,” she said.

“I believe the moment has arrived for me to take a step back and savour life’s pleasures while I still have the energy to do so.”

Regular customers, baker Tay Eng Chye, 59, and his wife Jessica Cheah, 57, expressed their sadness upon learning about H’ng’s potential retirement but found solace in the fact that her son has learnt her skills and would ensure the coffee’s aroma and taste remain the same.