Bracing for a cheese clash

Leonardi at Igor’s production facility in Cameri, Italy, outside of Milan. — Matteo de Mayda/The New York Times

ITALIAN food producers have long fretted over competition from American brands that are made to look, and sound, as if they are from Italy.

Some carry Italian flags and Tuscan-looking landscapes on their labels; others have (sometimes made-up) Italian-sounding names.