The delicate marbling of authentic wagyu. — Japan Livestock Products Export Promotion Council
IF you ask any seasoned chef about the world’s finest beef, the answer is likely to be unanimous: Japanese wagyu.
Renowned for its melt-in-your-mouth texture and intense marbling, Wagyu has long been a symbol of culinary excellence.
But now, Japanese producers want the world to think differently – not just about wagyu’s status as a luxury food, but about how it can evolve into a versatile staple across Europe’s rich culinary landscape.
At the forefront of this mission is the Japan Livestock Export Promotion Association (JLEC), which is leading a push to broaden wagyu’s reach beyond Asia and North America.
One of its most visible efforts took place at Sial Paris, Europe’s largest food innovation expo. The event offered a chance not just to show off wagyu’s unparalleled quality, but to reframe how chefs and consumers perceive it.
Wagyu in the spotlight
At the Japan Pavilion, wagyu was more than just a sample – it was the star attraction. Live cooking demonstrations, butchery techniques and cross-cultural presentations gave visitors a taste of wagyu’s incredible depth, from buttery sirloins to rich secondary cuts like shank and brisket.
“Wagyu has this reputation as something precious – something you only eat on special occasions,” said a JLEC representative at the booth.
“But there’s also potential for everyday meals, if people understand how to use it.”
It’s a tall order
Europe is fiercely proud of its own meat traditions, from French Charolais and German Simmental to Italy’s beloved Chianina.
Introducing a foreign premium product like wagyu into these established markets requires more than flavour – it takes trust, education and a shift in culinary mindset.
A new culinary language
Chef Romuald Fassenet, a Michelin-starred French chef and special guest at Sial Paris, is one of wagyu’s loudest advocates in Europe.
After visiting wagyu producers in Japan, his understanding of the beef changed completely.
“I stopped comparing wagyu to other beef,” he said. “It’s not just another meat – it’s wagyu. It deserves its own category.”
Fassenet now treats each type of wagyu as its own experience, tailoring recipes to enhance each producer’s signature traits.
In his kitchen at Chateau Mont Joly, he experiments with thicker cuts that allow the surface to crisp while preserving the beef’s juicy, umami-rich core.
This method, he says, suits European palates well – and it helps wagyu stand out from the crowd.
“It’s not about swapping wagyu into an old recipe,” he adds. “It’s about creating something new that lets wagyu shine.”
Sustainability meets innovation
What’s driving this culinary shift isn’t just wagyu’s luxury appeal – it’s the way chefs and producers are embracing its sustainability potential.
In Japan, wagyu isn’t just about prime cuts. There’s a longstanding tradition of nose-to-tail cooking, where every part of the animal is valued and transformed into something delicious.
That ethos is beginning to take hold in Europe too.
From arm cuts used in slow-cooked stews to richly marbled thigh meat seared and sliced over noodles, chefs are finding ways to minimise waste while showcasing flavour.
In countries like France, where rustic dishes using shank or brisket are already popular, wagyu fits right in – once you know how to cook it.
“Europe has always valued using the whole animal,” Fassenet said.
“It’s part of our food culture. And wagyu fits beautifully into that.”
This sustainable approach isn’t just about flavour – it’s also about economics.
Wagyu’s premium price tag can be intimidating for first-time buyers, especially when compared to local beef.
But by promoting cuts that are both affordable and flavourful, Japanese producers are opening the door to wider accessibility.
The long game
Sial Paris was just one chapter in a longer campaign to position wagyu in Europe – not just as a status symbol, but as a meaningful part of modern cuisine.
Previous efforts include the 2021 Wagyu Campaign, which introduced the beef across five European countries, and the 2022 Wagyu Olympics, which celebrated the best of Japanese wagyu through tasting events and international partnerships.
While challenges remain – especially in markets that prize local meat traditions – momentum is clearly building.
JLEC sees Europe as fertile ground for culinary innovation, especially as more chefs embrace sustainable sourcing, traceable ingredients and nose-to-tail methods.
It also helps that wagyu’s authenticity is tightly guarded. Every cut exported from Japan comes with a Quality Information System code that guarantees its origin and breeding history.
That assurance is crucial in a market where “wagyu-style” beef from other countries often confuses consumers.
“There’s no faking the real thing,” said a JLEC official.
“And once people taste authentic wagyu, they understand the difference.”
What’s next for wagyu?
The future of wagyu in Europe may depend less on fine-dining prestige and more on creative freedom.
As Fassenet puts it, “If 20 chefs get the same cut of wagyu, they’ll all make something different. That’s where the magic is.”
It’s this spirit of exploration – of discovering new ways to prepare and enjoy wagyu – that may ultimately allow it to thrive across Europe’s diverse culinary cultures.
Whether it’s caramelised brisket in Burgundy or a marbled wagyu tartare in Berlin, the message is the same: wagyu is not just a luxury – it’s a canvas.
And for those who dare to experiment, it’s a flavour worth mastering. — Japan Connect/AFP
