Syria’s shaky rebirth

The market in the old section of Damascus, Syria, a few days before the start of Ramadan. — Kiana Hayeri/©2025 The New York Times Company

IN the Syrian capital, Damascus, the country’s new leader has hosted a national unity conference and welcomed foreign dignitaries as crowds gather at cafes, speaking out freely for the first time in decades.

But 650km away in north-eastern Syria, a region beyond the control of the Damascus government, battles that have been going on for years are still raging.