Cowboys of the East: Still holding the reins on tradition

Bajau Sama horsemen at Kota Belud's tamu Besar. That young lad in red is a rare sight nowadays as many of the area's youth are leaving in search of opportunities in big cities. — CLEMENT LIEW

THE annual grand market held towards the end of the year in Kota Belud, Sabah, is not just about stalls hawking wares and food and a parade of folk decked out in their traditional best.

The state’s oldest tamu besar – which means big meeting or market in the local dialect – also marks a gathering of Bajau horsemen, an increasingly rare sight nowadays.

Astride their steeds, the horsemen prance around the grounds, manoeuvring in tight circles and showing off their riding skills. Tossing their manes and neighing, the horses are often just as colourfully garbed as the riders, their tassels and other decorations rustling with every move.

Known as the “cowboys of the East”, the Bajau Sama is the second largest indigenous community in Sabah and live on the west coast in areas like Putatan, Tuaran, and Kota Belud, which is a two-hour drive from Kota Kinabalu.

The Bajau Sama cultivate padi and raise livestock such as cattle and horses. In fact, the other moniker for Kota Belud is “East Cowboy Town”, not just for its horsemen but also for the cattle and buffalo its residents rear. The area is dotted with villages and criss-crossed by winding rivers, with padi fields showing against a backdrop of Mount Kinabalu in the distance.

Cherished here for their ability to survive and work in Sabah’s tropical climate is the “kuda padi Bajau”. However, the breed is not native to the state. While they are said to be descendants of horses brought in by the Spanish via the Philippines, in truth, their genealogy is hazier than that.

Whatever their origins, the pony-sized equine is integral to the life of the Bajau horsemen. But that might not hold true in the future, as not many young people are taking up the reins now.

Instead, they are leaving for cities in search of jobs, higher wages, further education, and more economic opportunities. Youths are also more drawn to digital entertainment the likes of Netflix, TikTok, and gaming that is easier to access in better connected urban areas.

Sabah’s unemployment rate in the third quarter of 2025 was 5.7%, shockingly higher than the national average of 2.9%. In Kota Belud, the average household income is below the national median – poverty was at 34.1% in 2024, according to the Malaysian Statistics Department.

Of horses and men

For 50-year-old Saiful Azua @ Joe Bin Golkhan, the horse is integral to his identity.

Being a Bajau horseman, he says, isn’t just about riding horses but about understanding the animal’s emotions and behaviour, and caring for and training them.

“It’s about the relationship between man and horse,” says Saiful, who is of Banjar/Bajau heritage from Kota Belud.

He first began learning about horses when he was 12, starting with basic care such as cleaning and feeding, and going on to understanding horse behaviour.

“In my community, being a horseman symbolises heritage, discipline and responsibility. It’s also a medium by which we instil patience, leadership and a respect for the environment in our younger generation,” says Saiful.

“The horse isn’t just an animal, it’s part of our identity.

“Horses are very important to me and my family. They teach us patience, commitment and cooperation. They also serve as a familial bond,” he says.

While horses were once an important mode of transport for the Bajau, today the seven horses he has in his stable are mainly used for races and ceremonies such as traditional weddings and official events.

Saiful admits that not many youths today are interested in horses or horse-riding.

“In my opinion, the main factor is the change brought about by the modern lifestyle. The youth are more exposed to electronic gadgets and digital entertainment.

“Besides, the costs of taking care of horses are high and there is also less early exposure now, resulting in less interest in horses,” he says.

Saiful, however, counts himself among the fortunate ones, as within his family his son and nephew have chosen to continue with the tradition.

“While our involvement may differ, we share the same interest and responsibilities towards our horses.”

Hold your horses

Like Saiful, Mohd Zulfikri Jamseh, 24, also started learning about horses when he was 12, tagging along as his father checked on their herd.

In his family, both he and his brother love horses.

“Being a horseman symbolises the pride and courage of the Bajau Sama community in Kota Belud,” he says.

Horses, says the young man, are very important to his family; currently, they are used to help forage for vegetables in the forest and round up their livestock.

While many young people his age have moved to the big cities in search of work and other opportunities, Mohd Zulfikri still tends to his family’s herd, feeding and bathing the animals daily.

The family has 20 horses, including one named Jackie Chan, which is Mohd Zulfikri’s favourite, and the one he rides during special occasions like the tamu besar.

“Nowadays, it’s too modern and everyone uses vehicles,” he says, sounding sad.

Luckily for the world, for Saiful and his son and nephew and Mohd Zulfikri and his brother at least, tradition still holds sway.