There is something about the air in Hulu Langat. Filled with the sound of buzzing insects and thick with rich, smells of lush green forests, it has a cathartic effect.
Located just an hour’s drive from Kuala Lumpur, it is perfect for those looking for an escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Halimah Rio, 62, who sells burgers and snacks at Gabai Falls in Hulu Langat says the district became popular as a tourist destination with the discovery of the waterfall.
“In the 1960s, a campaign that encouraged locals to plant limes was initiated. To transport farming equipment, a laterite road was built. During its construction, they found the waterfall,” said Halimah.
Access was further improved when the Kajang Municipal Council built cemented paths and a series of steps leading to the upper part of the falls more than 20 years ago.
Pertubuhan Gagasan Prihatin Semenyih (PGPS) secretary Hamdan Abu said the district had two other recreational forests in Sungai Tekala and Sungai Congkak, which were also popular with tourists.
Of the three, he said Gabai was the first to become popular.
The next area to be discovered was Sungai Tekala.
Negri Sembilan Forestry Department forest ranger Fairul Aswan said the Jalan Sungai Lalang area was famed for tin mining in the 1970s and 1980s.
When operations ceased, the area was gazetted a virgin jungle reserve and logged areas were restored for recreational purposes.
Sungai Congkak Recreational Forest (SCFC) is one location that features a river and waterfalls.
From the entrance and for about 2km in, the river offers diverse fun in gurgling streams, mini cascades and bathing pools.
Just 11 minutes away is Perdik Fall.
If by luck SCFC general worker Ali Shaari Anuar, 56, is on duty, ask him about the shortcut from the recreational forest to the falls.
It is a short hike through a forest path familiar to Ali, who is a retired colonel of the Malay Regiment and had spent 13 years in the jungles during the communist insurgency in his line of duty.
Do take time to chat with the locals to get to know some interesting stories about the area.
For instance, Halimah said Gabai Falls was rumoured to have a guardian spirit who would disapprove if anything was removed from its location, be it a pebble or a plant.
“I know visitors who had to come back to return whatever they had picked up from the area.
“They tell me they cannot sleep or their family members had fallen sick.
“One said that her teenage daughter went missing.
“Many of them told me they were advised to return whatever they had taken in a dream. After that, all was well again,” Halimah shared.
Discounting the supernatural, Hamdan reckoned visitors may have fallen sick as a result of water contamination.
“Two to three years back, the threat of leptospirosis forced the authorities to close the waterfall and river recreation areas to the public,” he said.
Fortunately, because of nature’s irresistible draw, visitors continued flocking here when it was reopened.
The district is also home to the indigenous Temuan people and visitors can visit one of these villages.
Unlike the yesteryear, Fairul said the Temuan have progressed in line with development.
“They drive Pajeros, have Astro dishes and are government officers, mostly with the Forestry Department,” said Fairul.
Kampung Orang Asli Sungai Gabai village head Alis Inak said the indigenous people have learned to value education for the younger generation.
“Until today, we are still dealing with issues of children who are not able to go to school because they have no birth certificates.
“But we know without the ability to read and write, our people risk being cheated.
“There are many times when we have been shortchanged for our produce and services,” said Alis.
Despite modernisation, traditional ways are not lost.
The orang asli continue to be the best guides for those looking at off-grid jungle hikes and visitors looking to buy freshly laid eggs, look out for half cut boxes hanging at the doors of village houses.
This is where the house’s resident hen sits while incubating her eggs.
The drive here is scenic. From Sungai Tekala to Sungai Gabai, one passes the Semenyih Dam.
Siti Aishah Sabah, who operates a food stall in Jalan Sungai Lui said the dam was a source of catfish, which was sold at RM18 per kg.
The journey from Sungai Gabai to Sungai Congkak passes quaint village houses, many of them converted to homestays.
For want of the experience of being lulled into a dreamless afternoon nap by a river, check out the many chalets for rent dotting the banks of Sungai Congkak.
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