Legend has it that when a colonial officer asked what was cooking in the kitchen, the cook replied: “Kari, kapitan.” Whether fact or folklore, the name endured.
The word “kapitan” comes from the Latin capitaneus, meaning “head” or “chief”. Kapitan, or capitan, is equivalent to an English Captain.
It was, and is, used to address the military commander of a ship.
It evolved into a term used for community leaders in the region, most notably the Kapitan Cina.
Among them was Kapitan Yap Ah Loy, often credited as one of the founders of Kuala Lumpur.
A curry may not seem the most obvious choice for Chinese New Year, yet kari kapitan was always on our table on the second day, when relatives and friends came visiting.
Its rich, aromatic gravy made it ideal for serving a crowd.
Like many heritage dishes, there is no single definitive recipe and each family hands down its oral recipe through many generations.
Similarly, my mother cooked by instinct – a little of this, a handful of that – always agak-agak.
Without a written record, I turn to “Nonya Flavours”, The Star’s trusted Peranakan compilation whenever I need a reliable reference.
Not only does it bring back memories of celebrating at home, it is also timely for this cross-cultural dish to make an appearance this Chinese New Year.
With its balanced heat, citrusy lift and creamy coconut base, kari kapitan makes the perfect dish on the festive reunion table.
Gong Xi Fa Cai to all celebrating.
Kari Kapitan
Marinade
1kg chicken leg quarters, cut into pieces
1 tbsp turmeric powder
Salt to taste
Ingredients
¾ cup cooking oil for frying
2 bulbs red onion
1 cup coconut milk
1 tbsp kaffir lime leaves, finely julienned
1 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp lime juice
Spice paste
350g shallots
10g garlic
30g galangal
20g ginger
10g turmeric
10g candle nut
50g lemongrass
20g belacan, toasted
75g red chillies
20g dried chillies, soaked in ½ cup hot water
5g bird’s eye chillies (optional)
¼ cup cooking oil
Garnish
Lime wedges
Mint leaves
Directions
Marinate chicken with turmeric and salt for at least an hour or overnight for deeper flavour.
Heat oil in a wok and fry chicken pieces until lightly golden.
Remove and set aside. Discard about ½ cup of the frying oil, leaving enough for sauteing.
Saute sliced onions until softened. Add the spice paste and cook over medium heat, stirring continuously until fragrant and the oil splits.
Return chicken to the wok and coat thoroughly with the spice mixture.
Add coconut milk, kaffir lime leaves and brown sugar.
Simmer gently until the chicken is tender and the gravy thickens.
Stir in lime juice just before serving to brighten the flavours.
Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with lime wedges and mint leaves. Serve with steamed rice or crusty bread.
