Artfully presented sole with salty fingers, asparagus and lime ‘kosho bearnaise’.
DINING in a 260-million-year-old limestone cave in Ipoh, Perak, surrounded by geological artistry is nothing short of magical.
Nestled within is Jeff’s Cellar, The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat’s award-winning restaurant that continues to captivate and awe.
Carved over millions of years, the cavern shows off a stunning display of stalactites and stalagmites, with chambers bathed in a warm, golden glow.
Despite its size, the restaurant seats only 60, thoughtfully arranged to harmonise with the limestone’s interiors.
Surrounded by nature, the culinary team draws inspiration from the land when designing its seasonal, Prestige and Chef’s Tasting menus.
The latter is the most elaborate, unfolding surprises from the first bite to the last.
Executive chef Lee Choon Boon, better known as chef Boon, started us off with an exquisite amuse-bouche trio – kingfish tuna with Japanese white kombu and rice cracker; French mallard duck paired with pepper relish and bright nasturtium; and delicate Japanese snow crab meat with carrot and cumin, garnished with edible blue starflower.
Chef Boon and Chan beckon with luxurious Christmas and New Year’s eve celebration menus.
Paired with the fruity and vibrant Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Exclusive Brut, the buttery mini brioche with finely minced duck delivered a burst of flavour, making it my favourite.
The next dish had a theatrical touch.
The diver scallops (hand harvested) with moules au jus, Amur caviar and a drizzle of herbaceous oil were cloaked in soft ribbons of smoke.
For this, a medium-dry W. Gisselbrecht Alsace Riesling was an apt pairing.
The rustic sourdough accompanied by Bario salt, Pamplie butter, extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar aged for 12 years, prompted Boon to share a story.
He said the resort previously sourced baguettes from an external baker.
However, during the Covid-19 movement restrictions, the chefs found time to experiment, producing a sourdough that now stars on the menu.
The buttery-sweet lobster is a nod to Boon’s talent with seafood.
Adorned with wild cress and edible flowers, the crustacean resting in a velvety lobster reduction was paired beautifully with Chateau Minuty Prestige Rose.
Delicate starflowers crowning the amuse-bouche of snow crab with pickled carrot and cumin.
Then the sole, with its bones artfully exposed, stole the limelight.
Served with salty fingers, asparagus and lime kosho bearnaise, it delighted with a perfect interplay of fresh, tangy and savoury notes.
Food and beverage director Grace Chan paired this dish with the tropical notes of the Flying Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough.
The Poussin en Vessie featured chicken cooked sous vide style in the resort’s hot spring.
Slow-cooked for six hours at a steady 63°C, the chicken’s delicate flavour was complemented by the earthy intensity of morel and matsutake mushrooms.
The sauce, a silken reduction of chicken broth infused with the mushrooms, delivered a long, umami finish.
A slightly sweet, semi-dry Placido Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie kept the pairing light and harmonious.
Wisps of smoke add drama to the diver scallops with ‘moules au jus’ and Amur caviar, drizzled with herbaceous oil.
To cleanse the palate, tangy persimmon and Sauternes granita arrived as a refreshing interlude.
For main course, there were two thoughtfully curated options – lamb saddle with Savoy cabbage, fermented walnut and a deep Bordelaise sauce or indulgent Miyazaki A5 Wagyu served with silky pomme puree, maitake mushrooms and jus de viande.
The lamb was paired with the robust Chateau Malmaison Baronne Nadine de Rothschild, while the beef found its perfect complement in the Wirra Wirra Vintage Bell Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale.
Dessert featured almond bavarois, almond yogurt gelato and preserved seasonal fruits, elegantly accented by Dow’s Fine Ruby.
With Christmas around the corner, The Banjaran is presenting an unforgettable experience just like the one above, offering re-imagined Christmas classics that showcase heart-warming contemporary European flavours made from the freshest ingredients.
The festive eight-course menu, from Dec 22 to 30, is priced at RM790nett per adult.
An elegant presentation of ‘bavarois’, almond yogurt ‘gelato’ and preserved seasonal fruits.
Priced at RM990nett per person, the Jeff’s Cellar Masquerade Gala Dinner on Dec 31 will be nothing short of fabulous as Boon and his kitchen crew present a 11-course experience.
This will be followed by the Jeff’s Cellar Countdown Party.
The fun follows through on New Year’s Day with Boon inviting guests to a no-menu dining experience to mark a remarkable start to 2026.
The eight-course chef’s table menu is priced at RM790nett per person.
JEFF’S CELLAR, The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat, 1, Persiaran Lagoon, Sunway 3, Ipoh, Perak. (Tel: 05-210 7777). Business hours: 6pm to 11pm.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
