Upgraded and enhanced define a new menu in the city celebrating Malaysia’s rich and diverse food culture.
ATAS, a restaurant at The RuMa Hotel and Residences, Kuala Lumpur, features favourites such as Ayam Bakar Percik and Rendang Tok with twists from executive chef Suhalmi Tasir.
Before diving into the mains, diners can stimulate their taste buds with starters like Udang Galah Otak-Otak (giant freshwater prawn with otak-otak).
The mushy and spicy otak-otak blends well with the fresh sweetness of the prawns.
Elevating the dish is the glistening salmon roe placed on top, which adds another layer of umami.
There is also Kerabu Kacang Botol (winged bean salad), which emits a sour and spicy smell, with a sharp spiciness hitting the tongue.
The dish delights via the crispness of winged beans and onions, balanced well with fresh bean sprouts.
Beef Rib Rendang Tok, Nam Yu (fermented beancurd) Snake Bean and Ayam Bakar Percik (grilled chicken basted with percik sauce) are among the must-try main dishes.
Being Suhalmi’s signature dish, the beef ribs in his rendang tok are so tender that the meat easily falls off the bones, while the sweetness pairs wonderfully with the fragrance of coconut milk.
Suhalmi said he learned the recipe from his father, who used to cook the dish during special events and ceremonies.
“I upgraded it by using Angus short ribs instead of traditional buffalo meat to enhance the flavours,” he added.
Another dish with an unconventional palate is the Nam Yu Snake Bean, where diners can taste a hint of saltiness in the strong sweetness of the dish, unlike conventional nam yu that is often savoury.
The tempura-like texture of the long beans further enhances the presentation.
Though not so intense, the tender Ayam Bakar Percik, wrapped inside a layer of crispy skin, is sweet and tangy when dipped into the percik sauce.
For savoury dishes, the Laksam Kelantan and Udang Galah Sambal (giant freshwater prawn with chili paste) are among the stars on the menu.
The Laksam Kelantan offers diners a delicate balance of umami and sourness (from the lime accompaniment) infused with the pleasantly chewy rice roll noodles.
Diners can also customise the level of spiciness according to their palate by adjusting the amount of sambal added to the dish.
For stinky bean lovers, they will find a delightful combination of the beans’ strong taste and fresh sweetness of prawns in the Udang Galah Sambal.
Diners should also try Bubur Cha-Cha Parfait and Ais Sagat, which are both “modernised desserts”, according to Suhalmi.
The refreshing Bubur Cha-Cha Parfait carries an ice-cream-like texture, which preserves both the crispness of the blended ice and softness of the sweet potato.
The texture is further enhanced by the pleasantly chewy boba on top.
The Ais Sagat contains a rich combination of taste with several ingredients including palm sugar, pandan, coconut milk and red bean.
The highlight is the coconut ice that is blended into the dish using a specifically customised machine that is not currently available in the market, according to Suhalmi.
“Inspired by cendol, Ais Sagat gives a modern definition to this heritage dessert,” said Suhalmi.
Diners can enjoy both set and a la carte lunches at ATAS from noon to 2.30pm, Monday to Saturday.
The two-course set menu priced at RM78 per person allows diners to select one main dish with one starter or dessert.
A la carte dinner is served from 6pm to 10pm daily.
For enquiries and reservations, call 03-27780763, email atas@theruma.com or visit www.theruma.com
ATAS, the RuMa Hotel and Residences, Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2778 0763). Business hours: 6.30am-10.30am (breakfast), Noon-2.30pm (lunch), 6pm-10pm (dinner).
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.
