Sometime in May, I travelled to Sabah, with the intention of climbing Gunung Minodtuhan, the eighth highest mountain in Malaysia.
I also wanted to go river canyoning at Taralamas in Ranau.
The mountain is near Kota Belud, and I had to stay overnight at a place called Kampung Sayap. This remote outpost is the starting point for trekking Gunung Minodtuhan, which sits at 2,360m above sea level.
At Kampung Sayap, I found myself completely disconnected from the outside world, with no phone signal and WiFi. At first, the silence felt unfamiliar, but it soon became liberating, a rare opportunity to step away from the demands of modern life.
On the day of my hike, I got up at 3.30am and prepared my things. My group gathered for a briefing from a Sabah Parks ranger, who explained that the 6km trail to Gunung Minodtuhan was deceptively challenging – about 20% of the route was relatively flat, but the remaining 80% consisted of steep climbs.
Together with my guide, Hindri, we took off at 4.20am. It was still very dark outside but we walked at a consistent pace, my footsteps slow and deliberate.
Occasionally, a strange scent drifted through the air. From the shadows, brief flashes of yellow light appeared and disappeared among the trees. Hindri explained that they were reflections from the eyes of animals hidden in the forest, quietly observing us as we passed through their domain.
As we continued on the trail, the mountain revealed itself. The first rays of sunlight slowly crept across the sky. I caught glimpses of the sun rays as I hiked steeply into the ridges towards the peak of Minodtuhan.
Before long, I found myself entering the enchanting realm of a mossy forest. Trees were draped in thick carpets of moss, their branches adorned with ferns, lichens, and epiphytes. The air grew cooler and heavier with moisture, while the forest took on an almost mystical character.
At exactly 8.23am, I reached the summit. There was no view at the peak as it was shrouded with mist, but I was still happy.
As we rested, the temperature continued to drop. The breeze soon became a powerful wind, tugging at our clothing. We decided to descend.
It was tougher going down and some parts were quite technical so we had to use ropes to help us. About 90 minutes later, we reached the starting point.
After the hike, I bid farewell and said “pounsikou” (Dusun for thank you) to Hindri for guiding me safely during the hike. I traded a loaf of bread for a pack of instant noodles with him – it was one of the most delicious instant meals I had ever had when I cooked it later that day.
My next adventure was in Ranau, at a 150 million-year-old canyon called Taralamas. This is a small river canyon, formed by stream erosion along a vertical fracture on the sedimentary rock sequence of the Trusmadi Formation.
I opted for the 8km river canyoning experience which took me to the Sungai Widu waterfall. I took my time to hike to the canyon. Along the trail, I saw lots of flora including Alocasia cuprea, bamboo groves, Begonia, fungus and giant bamboo trees.
After arriving at the banks of Sungai Widu, I waded into the cold water to acclimatise myself to the temperature. There is a hut where you can place your bag and belongings, and even a small toilet nearby. There was only me and another tourist there that day so it was nice having the place to ourselves.
I crossed the river to enter the canyon on the other side. I struggled slightly with the cold water and the strong current, but my spirits were lifted when I saw the gorgeous rock walls in the canyon.
Towering above me, the walls revealed countless layers of rocks stacked one upon another. Over millions of years, the relentless flow of water sculpted its way through these ancient rocks, patiently carving what is now known as the Taralamas River Canyon.
Standing between them, I couldn’t help but feel small in the presence of such immense geological history.
I floated on the water and looked up at the blue sky. I was lucky that the weather was great that day – I could take my time enjoying myself.
It was such an unforgettable solo hiking trip to Sabah.
The views expressed are entirely the writer’s own.
