A trip to Semporna, Sabah is usually all about the islands, beaches and water activities.
There are a handful of hiking trails on the mainland but probably only the most passionate and dedicated hiker would want to bring their hiking shoes to Semporna, a coastal town surrounded by some of the most beautiful islands in Malaysia.
(You can also climb up a hill at Bohey Dulang island, where the highest point is about 350m above sea level, for a fantastic panoramic view of its surroundings.)
Some tourists opt to stay on water villas and resorts too, spending minimal time on the mainland as they get whisked away to their accommodation via speed boat as soon as they arrive in town.
Of course, not everyone wants – or can afford – to stay in the villas. Some prefer to stay on the mainland, heading out to the islands at the break of dawn and returning in the late afternoon or evening, depending on the currents.
If you do stay on the mainland, and find that there’s not much to do once you’re back from the islands, head to the fish market. You may not be able to find it on your navigation app, though, so ask a local for directions.
You’ll know you’re nearby: All the makings of a typical wet market will instantly hit you, from the heady smell of seafood (don’t worry, they are usually still alive and therefore, fresh), to the sound of sellers shouting the names of random fish, hoping to get your attention.
At this particular market, however, the customers shout back. Loudly.
Here, bargaining is a sport. The louder you are, the better your chances of getting a good price on the seafood of your choice. At least that’s what we observed.
But it’s not just the volume, it’s also how good you are with your banter. Just as how customers love it when they are given the simplest of compliments (“Hello, beautiful sister!”), the sellers too react positively when you joke around or tease them, in a respectful manner, of course.
When we visited, everyone was shouting at one another that we couldn’t figure out if they were fighting or just haggling for a lower price. It was a chaotic scene but at the same time fun to watch, like a live reality show where the main characters are the sellers, buyers and seafood.
Tourists from China are the real experts here – the sellers, who are most likely from the Bajau Laut community, hawk their wares in simple Mandarin – relentlessly asking for the price to “go down” a little bit more.
Many of them have their eye on the humphead wrasse, which in itself is a controversial issue.
The humphead wrasse has been on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species since 2004, and is completely banned both for sale and consumption in China since 2021. However, in Malaysia, catching, selling, buying and consuming the fish remains legal.
Many marine conservation organisations, marine biologists, eco-activists and other conservation experts in the country hope that this will one day change.
That aside, other popular catches include the mantis prawn, lobster – some of which are gigantic in Semporna! – sea urchin, conch, and sea cucumber.
If you’re looking for “regular” seafood, just walk into the indoor market, where it is less chaotic, for a wide variety of fish, prawn, crab and more.
The good thing about this market experience is that you don’t actually have to buy anything, even if the sellers are pushing you to do so. Tourists who shop here are usually looking for specific items, which they would then take to a restaurant for the cooks to prepare.
Most of the restaurants are fine with this arrangement, provided you also order a number of dishes from them, and pay a cooking charge for the seafood you bring in.
