While not quite the blue that is referred to in Johann Strauss’ Blue Danube waltz, the Danube River is still a most impressive feature of the European landscape.
Europe’s second longest river extends for 2,850km, from Germany’s Black Forest in the west, and eastward towards Romania on the Black Sea. It provides a home for 80 million people and is regarded as the world’s most international river.
Capital cities such as Vienna (in Austria), Bratislava (Slovakia), Budapest (Hungary), and Belgrade (Serbia) are situated along the banks of the river.
It wasn’t my first time to Austria, and when I realised that I had a few extra days to spare, it was without hesitation that I chose to visit the Wachau valley to enjoy the wines produced there, the dramatic riverine scenery, enticing food, and to take the opportunity to explore the Danube River using various means of transportation.
Historic and cultural site
The Wachau (pronounced “vah-khau”), is one of the most scenic stretches of the Danube that extends for 36km from Melk to Krems. Here, the river is referred to as the Donau, but everyone understands its Anglicised version, Danube.
In the year 2000, the Wachau was included in Unesco’s impressive heritage inventory. Its cultural landscape captured the attention of Unesco along with the Benedictine monasteries of Melk and Gottweig, and the old town precinct of Krems.
In addition, this stretch of river is visually enthralling as it features many intact and visible traces of the land use over time. Its landmark features include architecture (castles, monasteries and ruins), urban design (villages and towns), and agricultural practices, especially its vineyards and apricot orchards.
With limited flat floodplain land on either side of this section of the Danube, the early inhabitants had to farm the adjoining steep land. Flooding of the Danube was another reason why the higher land was also cultivated.
Various religious orders set about cultivating the steep slopes of the Wachau, creating the dramatic present-day landscape of terraced vineyards.
In the ensuing centuries, the acreage of cultivated land fluctuated due to changing climatic conditions, the vagaries of the wine market, and acute labour shortages, followed by wage increases in the 17th century. By the 18th century, viticulture, or growing grapes, was well established on the steep terraces located in many parts of the Wachau.
Monastic structure
I arrived in Melk by train, directly from Vienna International Airport, but with a change of trains at St Polten. While I’d read all about the Melk Abbey (or Stift Melk), I was unprepared for this sight of the imposing monastery painted in a distinctive mustard colour.
Even from the railway station, a distance of half a kilometre, the hillside monastery dominates the small town.
It was an easy walk from the station to my accommodation, the Hotel Wachauerhof, just below the monastery, and a short walk along a mostly pedestrian cobblestoned street to the town centre.
It took me a day to realise that the monastery is very popular during daylight hours due to its proximity to Vienna, but in the evening, I was pleased that there were few tourists around.
Tours of various sections of the monastery are offered, and while previous structures date back to the Middle Ages, the Baroque building that is now inspected only dates back to 1809. It’s still a working monastery, but I didn’t see one monk while admiring the historic interior, relics, and the most impressive library.
It was then off for an afternoon cruise to Spitz, and then by train to Durnstein. While I joined hundreds of other sightseers on the MV Durnstein, I watched several sleek luxury cruise boats, like one operated by CroisiEurope, pass along the river. These vessels operate multi-day cruises along the river, with the Wachau being a highlight.
As our vessel motored along the Danube, all onboard were treated to fascinating views of terraced vineyards, rolling hills, and quaint villages dotting the landscape. My plan was to alight from the boat at Spitz, catch a train to Durnstein for dinner, and then return to Melk by bus.
Spitz is a small town, but on a summer Sunday afternoon, it was very busy with boats on the river, cars being ferried across the river, and cyclists using dedicated paths on either side of the river. Vineyards extend from the town limits, and a visit to Klosterhof Spitz enabled me to enjoy some local wines.
It was a short train journey to Durnstein, a charming tourist village famous for its Medieval castle ruins that overlook the river. While the ruins of the Durnstein Castle are set high above the Danube, it’s the power-blue abbey that is one of the iconic images along the Danube. While the appearance of this landmark has altered several times throughout history, it is the baroque features of the famous monastery of the Order of St Augustine that visitors now admire.
It was easy to appreciate why the town was full of tourists who wandered along narrow cobblestone streets lined with heritage buildings, boutique shops, and local art galleries. While a little touristy, I enjoyed my time there, especially after discovering a wine bar where local wines were offered for a fraction of Malaysian prices.
Wine on the terrace
My mission on the second day was to discover more about the local wines. This meant travelling to Krems to admire its historic town centre with its medieval buildings, trendy cafes, galleries, and boutiques.
However, my urban ramblings here were short as I wanted to head to the wine estate of Peter Schweiger just to the north of Krems and Langenlois. I had enjoyed the Austrian wines of Laurenz V (five) at Christoph’s Restaurant in Penang, and wanted to know more. One variety in particular captured my attention.
Laurenz V is a company that only produces Gruner Veltliner, so it was logical that I should seek these out in my Wachau wanderings. Guüner Veltliner accounts for 33% of all Austrian grape plantings, and is deservedly the star of the Austrian wine world. This white wine is worthy of attention, especially in Asia, where it pairs perfectly with many Asian cuisines and dishes.
Laurenz V has been instrumental in propelling Gruner Veltliner into the international spotlight. The grapes are sourced from Kamptal, and the wines are crafted in Zobing by fourth-generation winemaker Peter Schweiger.
This region is regarded as being the cradle of Austria’s signature white grape variety, and its famous Heiligenstein is the epicentre of viticulture.
This wine displays crisp acidity, concentrated flavour, subtle spice, and vibrant minerality. Descriptive words for Gruner Veltliner include spicy, peppery and fruity.
Along with Riesling, Gruner Veltliner thrives in the northern part of the country (Niederosterreich) in regions such as the Wachau and the neighbouring wine regions of Kamptal, Kremstal and Weinviertel.
Culinary delights
Each evening I eagerly anticipated dinner, as it meant sampling some classic Austrian dishes, other more creative offerings, and the opportunity to pair them with reasonably-priced local wines. Traditional Austrian dishes like wiener schnitzel and apfelstrudel are served, along with some regional and seasonal delights such as desserts made from apricots.
In Melk, I dined in Rathauskeller Melk and the Hotel Restaurant zur Post. Another highlight was dining at the riverside restaurant along the terrace of the Hotel Richard Lowenherz in Durnstein. Seated beneath plane trees I happily watched the busy river traffic, sipped a Domone Wachau Gruner Veltliner and dined on a saddle of veal with parsley potatoes and lingonberries. This was rounded off with an apricot pancake complemented by a superb glass of beerenauslese dessert wine.
Austria always impresses with the Wachau being one of the brightest gems in the nations’ tourism crown.
Travel Notes
How to get there: Vienna isn’t the most accessible European destination for Malaysian travellers, as it requires at least one transit stop. Malaysia Airlines flies direct to London and Paris, and from either city it’s easy to get to Vienna with a short flight, or via bus or train.
Trains operated by Austrian Railways, depart directly from Vienna Airport to Bad Ischl with a change of trains at Attnang-Puchheim. The rail journey from Vienna to Bad Ischl takes about three and a half hours.
Where to stay: Langenlois is regarded as Austria’s largest wine town, and the Loisium Langenlois Wine and Spa Hotel, just north of the Danube near Krems, is especially welcoming for wine connoisseurs. Otherwise, stay in Melk at the Hotel Wachauerhof, Gasthof Prankl in Spitz, and either the Durnsteinerhof or the Hotel Richard Lowenherz in Durnstein.
Wachau's charms
Visiting wine estates like Domane Wachau is a highlight for wine lovers. — Photos: DAVID BOWDEN
Use cycle paths along the Danube River to take in its ever changing moods.
Admire vineyards along the Wachau from the local train which operates along the river.
The Melk Abbey located right next to the Danube gives one of the most dramatic views along the Wachau.
The library in the Melk Abbey houses 100,000 valuable religious manuscripts.
Melk is full of tourists during the day but there are fewer crowds in the evening.
Apricot crepe ala mode is a classic dessert that incorporates seasonal local fruits.
A Danube river cruise is the best way to take in the picturesque Wachau.
The beautiful Baroque-style Durnstein Abbey has dominated the Wachau since the mid-18th century.
