Fern Chua says that batik is trendy right now, loved by even the younger generation. AZMAN GHANI/The Star
For Fern Chua, batik is an art – and like any true artist, she pours her soul into every design, blending tradition with her own contemporary expression.
Her fashion collections comprise resort-style wear, and are seen as a way to push the boundaries of the craft.
“You can have so much fun with batik,” Chua, 38, enthuses.
“A batik design is like a blank canvas, where you’re able to create just about anything. There are no limits to what you can imagine.”
Her journey began 12 years ago when she got into a car accident. At that time, batik making became a sort of physiotherapy – she practised painting motifs using wax to help her injured hand heal.
Chua founded her own brand, Fern Batik, a year after that. She views the experience, spanning more than a decade, as extremely challenging.
“I dived into a business that I knew nothing about. I had no background in batik or fashion at that time,” she admits.
Fern Chua’s designs are a balance between the traditional and contemporary. Photo: Fern Batik“It was scary. It was like a rollercoaster ride with many ups and downs. I think I only survived by continuously learning – through observing and talking to the artisans, and lots of reading.”
Everyone seems to have their own take on what batik really is, but for her, it comes down to one thing: it has to be hand- painted or hand-block printed using wax.
Today, she runs her own boutique in Kuala Lumpur. She also collaborates with conventional batik makers here in Malaysia to ensure their legacies live on.
Chua, however, does not believe that everything should remain the same.
Take for example, the way her batik is produced. She utilises brushes and sponges to create the patterns (with wax, of course), instead of the usual tjanting tool.
“I combine colours and patterns that are more in-trend. The ruffles you see on some of the pieces, or the broader collars and special necklines, are also something uncommon in the batik market.”
As a fashion designer, how would you define batik?
Batik is a medium. Using the wax-resist technique, patterns are dyed on fabric for the use in garments or other items.
While certain motifs have become synonymous with batik in Malaysia – like florals, I don’t think that we should be limited in that way.
There are contrasting views on what makes something “truly batik”, but for me it has to be the traditional way of how batik has always been made and definitely not digitally printed.
What I try to do with my brand is basically to share my interpretation of a well-loved traditional heritage craft. That’s just it.
Read more: Gen-Z fashion, streetwear, K-pop: Designer Tom Abang Saufi is still cool at 70
There are questions being asked about whether the batik industry is sustainable. Can you share your thoughts on this?
Sustainability is a journey. I provide ethical wages to my team, for instance – I think that’s a good start.
All of my pieces are made from natural fabrics like cotton, linen and silk.
Her contemporary expression of batik takes the form of beautiful resort-style fashion designs. Photo: AZMAN GHANI/The StarYes, we do use a little bit of polyester and plastic buttons here and there, but I’m trying my best to improve on this as the years go by.
Fern Batik is artisanally produced, meaning everything is made in small quantities to avoid overstocking. There is also a customisation service to tailor for different client needs and alteration services to prolong the life of the pieces.
I have a zero waste aim. Fabric offcuts are turned into accessories like tote bags, headbands, scrunchies and more.
We are even considering using beeswax instead of man-made wax, but there is the cost issue that we have to somehow find a way to overcome first.
The same goes for using natural dyes, which can make the batik-making process very labour intensive.
Fashion brands do want to be sustainable, but there is also the commercial factor that can’t be ignored.
What can only be done is to slowly move towards becoming as sustainable as possible.
Beyond fashion, have you worked with other brands to spread awareness about batik?
I’ve done different collaborations with different brands and companies over the years, from hotels to luxury lifestyle brands.
I’ve represented Malaysia when it comes to artisanal craftsmanship in various ways too.
I’ve been featured by the British Council’s Crafting Futures programme in the past.
Highlighting six figures around the world, the organisation showcased what “crafting in the future” looks like.
Coincidentally, that is always my aim of designing with batik.
I’ve always asked myself this: How do I make sure that the garments are something people would want to currently wear on a day-to-day basis and to break out of the norm with the interpretation of this craft?
Her batik fabrics feature contemporary patterns. Photo: Fern BatikIs batik still a niche fashion market?
Twelve years ago, I thought that batik was only worn by the elderly or limited to traditional wear – but now, you can find trendy fashion designs everywhere that make good use of batik.
Admittedly, I started off being uninformed. That’s the beauty of batik though, there is this rich history of it that goes beyond just aesthetic values.
To learn is to discover the story of batik, and fall in love with it.
Read more: How Malaysian designers are making their name beyond the country's borders
Are you saying that batik is a fashion trend now?
Yes, but more than that, it is a way of living.
I think maybe there is just more appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship. It’s unique, a part of our heritage and the value of artistic expression.
So batik, the way it is so lovingly made by the artisans, becomes something treasured – even by the younger generation.
How would you sum up your adventure when it comes to batik and fashion?
For me, it is a lot about passion, determination and vision.
Seeing my business coming to life is already part of the larger mission accomplished.
The journey was filled with all sorts of memories, from creating many beautiful collections over the years, meeting many amazing people along the way that supported the growth, to surviving through the (Covid-19) pandemic times when I opened my first flagship store just right before it hit.
I won’t trade this experience for anything else, all while this journey keeps unfolding for me.
