Time is often described as a river – constant, relentless and impossible to contain. But for one night in Switzerland, it stood still.
The 25th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) gathered the world’s greatest watchmakers and reminded all that the pursuit of excellence never grows old.
Described as the “Oscars for watches”, the luxurious gala was held at the Batiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva, and honoured exceptional timepieces that represented the very pinnacle of design, innovation and uncompromising mechanical mastery.
These were selected from 90 nominees, comprising 84 watches and six clocks, whittled down from an initial list of 302 submissions by 184 brands.
With effortless charm, host Antoine de Caunes acquainted guests with the visionary brands and artisans who transformed complex gears and springs into horology poetry.
The night’s top honour − the prestigious and coveted Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix − went to Breguet’s Classique Souscription 2025 wristwatch.
The jury and 1,050-member Academy, led this year by historian Nick Foulkes, also awarded prizes to winning creations across 18 other categories.
A Special Jury Prize was given to Alain Dominique Perrin, president of the Fondation Cartier Pour l’art Contemporain, in recognition of his contributions to contemporary watchmaking.
Prior to the GPHG awards ceremony on Nov 13, the nominated timepieces went on a 2025 World Tour with exhibitions in Shanghai and Istanbul, doubling as cultural and diplomatic goodwill exchanges.
The selection returned to Geneva for a grand exhibition at the Musee d’Art et d’Histoire, in conjunction with the awards night.
It then proceeded to the Middle East for a post-event stop at the Dubai Watch Week between Nov 19 and 23.
These events gave watch lovers a peek into the extraordinary craftsmanship behind every piece, proving that true innovation can still surprise even the most seasoned collectors.
Amid the headline entries were also hidden treasures – brands and maisons that quietly push the conventions of craftsmanship, leaving enthusiasts marvelling at their ingenuity.
From exquisitely hand-finished movements to designs that blend artistry with precision, these timepieces stand proudly at the summit of horological excellence.
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix
Breguet was awarded the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix for its Classique Souscription 2025 timepiece.
This most prestigious award rewards the best overall timepiece among all categories (Best in Show), also deemed the most representative of the watch industry as a whole.
Unveiled to celebrate Breguet’s 250th anniversary, the watch honours the visionary spirit of its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Inspired by the 18th century Souscription pocket watch, this modern wristwatch features an immaculate white enamel dial with a flame-blued and open-tipped steel hand.
The classic dial is encased in two Breguet innovations – a cheved sapphire crystal and Breguet gold bevel, the brand’s own blond precious metal alloy combining gold, silver, copper and palladium.
Ergonomics are excellent with the 40mm diameter and 10.8mm high case, the middle of which is delicately satin-brushed in the spirit of classic timepieces.
The movement beats at a frequency of 3 Hz or 21,600 vibrations per hour, delivering a four-day power reserve.
Fine shot-blasted plates, blued steel screws and rubies further enhance it.
In a nod to history, the central ratchet wheel has engravings of the founder’s words on the original Souscription movement design.
Breguet CEO Gregory Kissling credits the win to the passion and dedication of the artisans who brought the watch to life.
“Their commitment, expertise and high standards lie at the heart of Breguet,” he says.
Challenge Watch Prize
Dennison’s stunning Natural Stone Tiger Eye watch is a celebration of enduring style and meticulous detail.
A revival of the Anglo-American watchmaker’s classic cushion case, its dial features Natural Tiger’s Eye, a stone known for warm depth and unique patterns.
Each one is cut and polished to reveal a unique character, making no two alike.
The 37mm by 33.5mm gold PVD case, with a slim 6mm profile, evokes the elegance and charm of the 1960s.
The embossed brown leather strap with bespoke pin-buckle accentuates the case’s elegant curvature and finish – ensuring that it stands out on the wrist.
Dennison director Toby Sutton said they were delighted with the recognition that capped off a whirlwind first year after their launch.
The company was originally founded in 1874 and produced cases for many prestigious Swiss brands for nearly a century before stepping out of the spotlight.
It returned in 2024 with an inaugural collection designed by celebrated Swiss designer Emmanuel Gueit, and the Challenge Watch win could be a sign of things to come.
Chronometry Prize
“The G.F.J is not simply a nod to the past, but a contemporary interpretation of our heritage that resonates with today’s spirit,” Zenith Watches CEO Benoit de Clerck says.
In recognition of its commitment to honouring its heritage while continuing to pursue its founding ideal: creating the perfect watch, Zenith was awarded the Chronometry Prize.
Designed for Zenith’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. Calibre 135 − named after its founder Georges Favre-Jacot − is a tribute to a legacy of impeccable perfection.
It is powered by an exceptional movement, the legendary Calibre 135.
The most awarded movement in the history of chronometer trials, it has been re-engineered for 21st-century precision.
Every element was refined with intent, from the oversized balance wheel and Breguet overcoil to the stop-second mechanism and extended 72-hour power reserve.
Aesthetically, the watch blends 1950s elegance with contemporary style.
The slender 39mm platinum round case has a stepped bezel and alternating brushed and polished surfaces.
Beneath the sapphire glass box is a deep-blue lapis lazuli dial with gold-coloured pyrite flecks evoking a starry sky.
Their natural textures make each dial unique.
An oversized subdial at 6 o’clock comes in mother-of-pearl, while white gold form the baton-style hands as well as hour and minute markers.
The latter sit on an outer ring featuring a brick guilloche pattern inspired by the facade of the manufacture in Le Locle.
Men’s Watch Prize
For Urban Jurgensen, one of the most revered names in horology having been founded in 1773, the GPHG prize reaffirmed its ethos of blending the past and present to achieve timelessness.
The Urban Jurgensen UJ-2 is a soulful and precise instrument, meticulously built by hand to be worn and enjoyed, serving as enduring companions in a life well lived.
Urban Jurgensen UJ-2: Double Wheel Natural Escapement embodies the brand’s philosophy of making technical excellence the foundation of everything.
Its 39mm rose gold case comes with a stepped and satin-polished bezel, as well as 20mm lugs in a reinterpreted design.
Beneath the domed sapphire crystal, the main dial’s periphery features a hand guilloche circular grain d’orge pattern and flame-blued hands.
The subdial has a Clous de Paris texture, reflecting the brand’s uncompromising attention to detail.
Hand-stitched, ethically-sourced alligator leather straps with soft calfskin lining complete the understated look.
At the timepiece’s core are sophisticated dual escape wheels that reduce friction and optimise energy delivery, resulting in greater efficiency, precision and a 52-hour power reserve.
The wheels’ rhythmic ballet also honour and echo generations of master watchmakers, from Abraham-Louis Breguet −Urban’s teacher in the 18th century − to the trendsetting artisans today.
Chronograph Prize
Angelus’ masterful Chronographe Telemetre in 18-karat yellow gold blends historical authenticity with modern refinement.
At 37mm in diameter, it is Angelus’ smallest contemporary model.
Its vintage dial takes cues from early chronographs and features a sophisticated mono-pusher set into the winding crown, stamped grain centre and satin-finished flange.
These contrasting finishes are illuminated by a delicate, diamond-polished thread separating the two areas.
Elements of the mainplate and bridge are finished in gold, while applique hour markers and numerals get a black treatment.
The case has characteristic curves that run from lug to lug while polished edges, plunging at the top and twisted on the flanks, add dynamic complexity.
Powered by the in-house A5000 calibre, the hand-wound movement and 42-hour power reserve is an extremely flexible technical cornerstone for the brand.
Managing director Pascal Bechu says the win underscores Angelus’ distinctive ability to combine traditional watchmaking craftsmanship with technical innovation and modern design.
“This is the perfect way to mark the 100th anniversary of our first monopusher chronograph.
“It is the ultimate validation of our brand essence and deep-rooted expertise in crafting exceptional timing instruments.”
