How modern-day abayas and kaftans stay true to modestwear codes

Labels are incorporating design elements related to their brand story, or inspired by the designer’s experiences. Photo: Bi.Albak

Abayas and kaftans (or caftans) – loose robes traditionally worn over your clothes to keep you covered – have been used by a number of cultures globally for thousands of years.

An everyday wardrobe staple for women in the Middle East, the abaya has grown in popularity in Malaysia, with many donning it daily as well as for special occasions.

Modern abayas and kaftans are meant to make you feel effortlessly put together while respecting tradition. Photo: LarneyDesigned in more colour options with bold embellishments, lace detailing and dramatic sleeves, both the abaya and kaftan are becoming a top choice for modestwear.

“Kaftans and abayas have always been about effortless elegance, but lately, we’re seeing a shift towards pieces that feel even more lightweight, versatile and refined,” says Zura Zabidi, founder of Larney.

“Women today want something that moves with them – flowy silhouettes, breathable fabrics, and designs that work from day to night,” she says.

Abayalunaa founder Syahruban Mohammad notes that while most are simple and classic silhouettes, many abayas feature intricate embellishments such as beadwork and lace.

“This shows that today’s consumers prefer a personalised touch to their abayas; they see the artisanal value of our abayas through the handmade embellishments that we feature. The modern approach in designing abayas ensures that they have a timeless appeal, you can wear our abayas anytime, during any season for years to come,” adds Syahruban.

Another popular abaya style is made up of a three-piece set.

“This consists of an outer, inner and hijab which is more in trend in the Middle East and I could say now in Malaysia too as it is more timeless and elegant and it can be styled in so many ways,” says Najihah Mohd Shahrudin, founder of Bi.Albak.

“People are also not looking for black abayas anymore; they want colours and prints,” adds Najihah.

Read more: Timeless and wearable: The enduring style of Malaysian fashion label Mimpikita

Designing modern muslimah wear

Modesty is a personal thing, and it means different things to different people, but the general consensus is to cover up everything except for the face and hands.

Contemporary modestwear brands, while remaining true to tradition, are incorporating design elements to elevate traditional one pieces.

“For us at Larney, an abaya or kaftan isn’t just about covering up; it’s about feeling graceful, confident and effortlessly put together. The way a fabric drapes, the ease of movement, the attention to detail ­– these are the elements that define a truly timeless modest piece,” says Zura.

“While we always respect tradition, we also know that fashion is constantly evolving. That’s why we love playing with new cuts, layering techniques, and fabric innovations to bring a fresh, modern feel to classic silhouettes. It’s about honouring the essence of modestwear while making sure it speaks to today’s women – wherever they are in the world,” she adds.

To change the mindset that abayas are exclusively for religious activities, brands like Syahruban’s are getting creative in order to cater to all occasions.

“We produce a variety of abayas that are still modest but stylish, designs that stay on trend without compromising on modesty, where you can wear the abaya as your day-to-day outfit or during occasions or at the office while still being Syariah-compliant. We want the abaya to be a versatile piece that you can wear in any setting,” says Syahruban.

By modernising these items of clothing, brands are making them as accessible as regular modern clothing such as dresses, shirts and skirts.

By modernising abayas, brands are making them as accessible as regular contemporary clothing. Photo: Abayalunaa

To ensure their one-piece creations are practical for humid weather, the selection of appropriate materials is a main priority.

“The material is important since we need a cooling and breathable material that will be suitable for the Malaysian weather. By choosing the right material, we can then focus more on comfort and how the abaya would drape over the body so you can move with ease in our designs,” says Syahruban.

While Zura’s creations are made from breathable fabrics, many pieces are also designed to be styled in multiple ways.

“Layer it over something casual for a relaxed look, or add statement accessories to instantly elevate the outfit,” she says.

Another design element that more brands are paying attention to these days is making an outfit wearable for breastfeeding mothers and pregnant women.

“As I myself am still breastfeeding, I like my clothing to be loose and have either zippers or buttons,” says Najihah.

Read more: Ezuwan Ismail fashions clothes for Siti Nurhaliza, he also wants to dress you

A constant evolution

Trends come and go, and while this is a main driver behind how brands change up their products, feedback from consumers has become more and more important in today’s day and age.

Syahruban notes, “We are always open to opinions and suggestions from our customers. We listen to their feedback and we are constantly improving our designs for them. Every piece we make pays the utmost attention to detail, with our customer, the wearer in mind.”

While catering to professionals and career women was their initial goal, they are now tapping into younger markets because of their buying power.

“Over the years, we have improvised and updated our designs to cater to all our customers, no matter their age. We offer abayas at an affordable price range so the younger generation could afford to buy our abaya,” adds Syahruban.

Inclusivity with regard to various sizes is another thing that brands cannot afford to ignore.

“We make sure that every woman feels represented,” says Zura. “Our size range is diverse because beauty isn’t one-size-fits-all. We also celebrate cultural representation, whether it’s in our designs, campaigns or the way we tell our brand’s story.”

 

Within this competitive market, brands with a unique story tend to stand out among the rest.

 

Apart from producing pretty pieces in inclusive sizes, labels like Bi.Albak incorporate interesting design elements related to their brand story, or inspired by the founder or designer’s experiences.

“We try to actually give a hint of Lebanon in every collection that we do as the brand name was actually inspired by a city in Lebanon, Baalbek. So, in every collection we would try our best to show the Lebanese side where most people have not visited, where my husband was born and raised,” says Najihah.

Be it the unique brand story, design codes or the versatility factor, abayas and kaftans that were once limited to certain occasions are becoming a wardrobe staple for a growing customer base.