Franck-ly imaginative

The Franck Muller Curvex CX Flash Grand Central Tourbillon has a redesigned case, edgy design and centrally placed tourbillon. — Photo courtesy of Franck Muller SEA

SWISS watch manufacturer Franck Muller’s 2023 novelties, unveiled during its own World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie 2023 fair, has made its media debut on Malaysian soil.

This year’s new timepieces with ever more innovative designs and sophisticated craftsmanship executed on the brand’s signature tonneau-shaped cases will surely draw keen interest from watch enthusiasts, especially fans of the brand.

Inspired by high-tech sports cars, the Curvex CX Flash Grand Central Tourbillon features a modern carbon-composite case with brightly coloured indexes instead of the usual Arabic numerals.

Unmissable is a large one-minute tourbillon prominently displayed centrally that gives the name away.

Here, the tourbillon is moved from the traditional six o’clock position into the centre of the dial, with the hour and minute hands extending from behind the central tourbillon cage that also serves as the seconds indicator.

The polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) indices are a nod to its automotive influences that fluoresce vibrantly under ultraviolet light.

The carbon fibre case lends lightness and high-tech looks to the timepiece, especially in the new Curvex CX style where the sapphire crystal extends all the way toward the bracelet, giving greater visibility to the microblasted matte brass dial.

The watch comes in options of blue, orange, red and green indices, with nylon straps that are lined with calf leather on the underside.

At the media preview in Kuala Lumpur, Franck Muller South-East Asia chief executive officer Sharon Lim says the Grand Central Tourbillon Flash sets itself apart from the pack of this year’s novelties.

“It really stands out from the rest of the models. Franck Muller is a creative brand and we ensure we are always innovative in our creations.

“The Grand Central Tourbillon was launched in 2021 in a more classical style, and with a few changes, the timepiece now has a completely different feel to it,” she says.

Among the new Franck Muller releases, Lim’s personal favourite is the Vanguard Slim Skeleton in white gold which features 285 brilliant-cut diamonds (4.92 carats) painstakingly hand set into the case and indices.

At 9.1mm thin, the Vanguard Slim Skeleton features a new in-house movement at 4.35mm with a 60-hour power reserve. There are two case size options — 41mm or 37mm.

The 12 Arabic numerals appear to float, thanks to the skeletonised movement, and are milled together as part of the case which can be fully admired through its display caseback.

The Vanguard Damas Racing is made with Damascus steel.

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Damas and Vanguard Damas Racing mix edgy with sporty elegance with the use of the new material, Damascus steel.

While the design of the watches remains largely the same as existing models in the series, the use of Damascus steel — a first for the watchmaker — is the highlight of the update.

This blending of horology and metallurgy creates an organic-looking finish to the case and dial, and comes with a few benefits — such as resistance to shocks and anti-magnetic properties — with each watch having its own unique character.

The alloy starts off as a solid block that is a blend of two types of steels, stacked to create different layers.

Once milled to the desired shape, it is then bathed in the brand’s own unique acid bath which reveals the unique striated patterns and highly contoured look.

The Vanguard Damas is available in a basic three-hand model, as well as in the Racing variation with a centre seconds wheel and partially openworked dial.

Members of the press getting a close look at timepieces from this year’s Franck Muller novelties. — Photos: AZLINA ABDULLAH/The Star

The media presentation in Malaysia also revealed the Skafander 43, a titanium diving watch also executed in the iconic tonneau shape and boasting a resistance up to 100m underwater.

This year’s release brings about a smaller case at 43mm wide and 14.1mm thickness (versus 45.8mm wide and 15.6mm thickness) to accommodate smaller wrists.

Lim notes that the Skafander 43 will provide a better fit for the South-East Asian market than the previous 46mm case.

“We try to select what is a good size for our consumers, although it would depend on the individual.

“Nevertheless, slimness is also a trend now,” she highlights.

At the heart of the dial and within the central seconds ring, lies its namesake in the form of an emblem inspired by the helmet of the first protective full-pressure suit created in the 1930s for navy divers.

The blackened or brushed titanium finish coupled with titanium folding buckles and rubber straps means this timepiece can handle more than just desk-diving.

Also shown during the preview was the Curvex CX Lady that will be available in two new sizes of 30mm and 33mm.

It features the new Curvex CX-style case a la Grand Central Tourbillon Flash, which accentuates the dial and allows for two-tone treatment of the bezel.

Lim: We try to select what is a good size for our consumers.

The Arabic numerals are treated with 20 layers of lacquer applied by in-house artisans and stand out above the manufacture’s elegant Clous de Paris pattern on the dial. Surrounding the case are 318 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.7 carats).

Meanwhile, the Cintree Curvex Retrograde Hour Tourbillon features Franck Muller’s distinctive and classic Cintree Curvex case style.

Unlike the traditional hour hand which rotates around a central axis, the retrograde hour hand follows a 220-degree arc and instantly jumps back to its starting point upon reaching the breakpoint.

The hours follow one another in a clockwise direction until 5.59. When the sixth hour hits, the mechanism sends the hour hand flying back anti-clockwise to the 6 o’clock marker symmetrically located on the left side of the dial.

The 42mm white gold case is handset with 173 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.75 carats), with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock while the numerals above the holographic dial are treated with 15 layers of translucent lacquer by hand.

The Curvex CX Flash Grand Central Tourbillon is set to be launched and available here from September.

The Vanguard Slim Skeleton, meanwhile, will be launched here this November.

Franck Muller boutique is in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. The brand is also available at Cortina Watch in Penang’s Gurney Plaza and Kota Kinabalu’s Imago shopping centre.