History, theatrics and sophistication: Highlights of the SS24 menswear shows

Models rise up from the floor for the Dior menswear show in Paris. Photo: AP

History and fashion came together at Givenchy’s menswear show at Les Invalides, Paris.

Steeped in the martial aura of the former military hospital with its cast iron cannons, the show was the first of its kind across the monument’s sprawling balcony.

The historic courtyards of the Ecole Militaire served as the grand stage for Dior’s men’s show (as seen on the cover), a spectacle that played out under the watchful eye of the Eiffel Tower.

Square tops on the runway receded, with male models rising from the remaining square holes, a costly theatrical demonstration that even had the stoic Bernard Arnault, CEO of Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy, reaching for his phone to film.

Under the expert hand of veteran designer Veronique Nichanian, the Hermes menswear show unfolded with an air of cool nonchalance and subtle, sophisticated luxury. The collection offered an inviting array of pastel hues.

Here are some highlights of the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collections.

Read more: Jay-Z, Beyonce and more: Celebrity spotting at the men's fashion week shows

Getting confident

Givenchy. Photo: AFP

In recent seasons, the creative heat at Givenchy under Matthew Williams had seemed somewhat tepid.

However, this latest collection, presented against the backdrop of Les Invalides’ pale stone arches, displayed a new-found creative confidence from him.

The designer seems to be settling in to successfully steer the age-old LVMH-owned house into solid sartorial ground.

The show commenced with an array of finely tailored couture suits in striking black and white contrasts. These looks, loose yet opulent, seamlessly meshed with the historical backdrop, setting an indulgent tone and priming the audience for what was to come.

In a welcome and inclusive turn for the maison, models of diverse backgrounds graced the runway. This wasn’t just a show; it was a statement, a testament to Givenchy’s dedication to inclusivity and modernity.

As the show progressed, the couture tailoring gradually gave way to utilitarian and – at times – militaristic elements.

These influences were likely borrowed from the show’s venue, the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. With rucksacks, zippers, straps, and toggles, Williams cleverly infused a sense of practicality into high fashion.

The disruptive silhouettes created by backpacks fastened at the back of the models echoed the venue’s military roots and lent an edgy vibe to the show.

It was a celebration of diversity, and most importantly, it was a beacon of creative growth for Williams at Givenchy.

Celebrating a milestone

Dior. Photo: AP

The show marked a milestone for British designer Kim Jones, celebrating his fifth year at the helm of Dior menswear.

The collection displayed was decidedly bold, marrying traditionally feminine elements of Dior’s past with a modern men’s aesthetic, effectively capturing the gender-fluid ethos of Generation Z.

“Dior is a haute couture house,” Jones remarked. “It’s a culture we have inherited from womenswear past and applied to menswear present.” The show exhibited styles that championed a softer approach to masculinity.

Dior handbags swung from male arms, leopard print skirt-shorts were presented unapologetically, and pink pastel tweed shorts offered a fresh interpretation of manhood.

The collection showcased an intricate blend of masculine and feminine, transmuting the high-end tailoring traditions of British menswear with haute couture fabrications, harking back to Dior’s womenswear roots.

Notable elements included neon accents on loafers and tennis shirts, geometric Balkan motifs, and an array of bags in diverse shapes, colours and textures.

Jones’ collection also paid homage to his predecessors, with a “collage of influences” visible in the textural techniques and silhouettes.

Drawing from Yves Saint Laurent to Gianfranco Ferre, Marc Bohan to Monsieur Dior himself, Jones created a mix of pop iconography and tradition, transforming the house’s iconic flower women designs into “hommes fleurs” or “flower men”.

Read more: Pharrell Williams' debut Louis Vuitton show in Paris a star-studded event

Always a classic

Hermes. Photo: Reuters

With a soft palette of shades of steam, light grey, sage, and others graced loose silhouettes, the Hermes collection reflected an airy and comfortable mood.

Oversized bags and sandals featuring hole motifs contributed an off-kilter feel.

Gentle geometry abounded, manifesting in stripes that danced across T-shirts and coats, drawing a bold link to Hermes’ emblematic openwork motifs.

Nichanian reinforced the classic realm of menswear, maintaining instead the timeless elegance Hermes has been synonymous with since her tenure began in 1988.

Summer was anticipated in tunics and beach blazers, while the allure of the collection was unmistakably sensual, with heavy silks for summer nights and loose knits for cooler hours.

Nichanian – Paris fashion’s longest-serving, non-founding designer since Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld’s death – continues to present the Hermes man with an effortless sartorial elegance, all the while enhancing the brand’s reputation for understated, sellable fashion. – AP