It is always thought that the act of accessoring with jewellery is more a woman’s thing. Now that brands are changing their focus to include men’s – or rather, gender-neutral – collections, it says a lot about a shifting trend.
De Beers for example, launched a unisex collection late last year. It was the first of such for the luxury jeweller.
The RVL designs comprise rings, pendants and bracelets, all designed to stack and style to an individual’s personal taste.
“We are not only seeing more men interested in jewellery, but they are also buying jewellery pieces, which, traditionally would have been considered women’s jewellery, for themselves,” says Celine Assimon, CEO of De Beers, in an email interview.
She however insists that the RVL collection is not just for men, and instead, intended for everyone.
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“We are reaching a new audience,” Assimon explains, but adding that it should still speak to the brand’s existing clientele, who have been asking for bold, fresh and modern pieces.
In January, Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) declared that jewellery is the latest booming category in menswear.
Citing data by global fashion search engine Lyst, the fashion industry trade journal reported that searches for men’s jewellery in 2022 have increased 43% year-over-year.
WWD also noted that data from digital shopping platform ShopStyle showed increasing interest in the same category, with searches up by 28.6% last year.
Express yourself
“We are seeing a growing demand for self-purchase, especially among a younger demographic – by both women and men, and this is likely to continue evolving in 2023,” Assimon points out.
“Customers are also focussing on fewer, better things and diamond jewellery is definitively benefitting from this new mindset.”
That said, perhaps the shift to a male or gender-neutral design aesthetic is just something extremely novel – leading to it becoming a talking point.
For the longest time, fashion-forward men were faced with a limited range of jewellery to choose from. They either couldn’t find jewellery that fit their tastes, or they had to opt for the more subtle women’s designs.
When rose gold became a huge trend in the 2010s, it was to the dismay of guys who like dressing up, as the material’s colour is deemed as rather feminine.
Perhaps this is the reason why the RVL collection makes use of mixed metals instead, namely black titanium and white gold.
The diamond, which is usually front and centre in De Beers jewellery, takes a back seat as well.
In the bracelet, the stone even sits hidden in the back – its presence known only by the wearer. This is just the kind of less in-your-face bling that guys tend to go for.
“The jewellery client of today is plural – we are not only catering to women but also to men, who want to express their personality,” Assimon says.
According to her, De Beers is a very young jewellery brand (at only 20 years old), but it draws from over 130 years of unique expertise in diamonds.
While the brand is certainly pushing boundaries, it is not just following trends for the sake of it.
“The De Beers RVL collection is performing very well, and we are excited to expand the collection later this year, launching new fun and bold pieces for everyone to wear,” Assimon enthuses.
Made to be inclusive
Founder Jenn Low says that it is now a matter of not excluding anyone when it comes to the overall offerings.
“My team and I designed pieces for both men and women alike, with androgynous, inclusive and interchangeable styles,” she explains.
Interestingly, Wanderlust + Co has never carried jewellery for men since it was founded in 2010.
The whole idea of the brand is also hinged on women’s empowerment.
Wanderlust + Co is run by an all-women team – something that Low is extremely proud off. Not only that, the hashtag #WCOgirlgang has been used extensively in campaigns for several years.
“We are constantly evolving as a brand. As we grow, we are championing for the empowerment of people, while still continuing to have a focus on women as it’s always been our brand DNA,” she comments.
Maybe it is a shifting mindset spurred by the Covid-19 lockdowns, where brands realised that change is the only constant.
Low says the local jewellery industry has definitely grown throughout the pandemic. She points to how not only did more brands emerge across various online platforms, existing ones were forced to question the way they have been operating.
While having started as an online business, Wanderlust + Co defied the odds and embraced physical stores. Its first permanent boutique opened in Sunway Pyramid last November.
As for aesthetics in general, Low shares that she has increasingly noticed jewellery designs that are more classic, timeless and inclusive across genders.
She believes this direction will continue to be a trend for the year.
“I personally think it’s great to offer the local consumer more options within the category.”
Read more: Beautiful or bizarre? Fashion designers are pushing the limits of showmanship
Beyond gender
For the founders of another local jewellery brand, Kin, they believe that the booming men’s jewellery segment is more apparent in markets such as Australia, the UK and Europe.
“There are still men in our region who are looking for jewellery that will last, of which represents their own image and style,” Zaireen Iskandar, one of Kin’s co-founders, nevertheless says.
“This increase can be attributed to the larger fine jewellery brands, such as Tiffany and Cartier, working with male brand ambassadors over the last few years, emphasising how good quality jewellery can look very attractive on men,” she explains.
Kin was launched in 2018 as a demi-fine brand. It offers attainable yet premium quality designs that sit between cheap costume jewellery and expensive fine items.
In this regard, Athiya Hamid, co-founder of Kin, explains that demi-fine jewellery is becoming increasingly popular – more so, in Malaysia.
“Initially in Malaysia, demi-fine was almost unknown. Gradually, however, through the process of educating customers and our subtle and edgy design range, they began to understand our philosophy and role in the marketplace.”
Versatile designs that can fit all occasions – as opposed to niche designs – are in-demand too. This is probably why gender-neutral collections have become a trend.
“People are increasingly going out to lunches, dinners, events and parties again; they’re avidly looking for pieces that reflect their personalities,” Athiya comments.
While Kin does have a men’s range, it is still very limited in the selection.
When asked about it, Zaireen says that they are looking to expand it. The brand is in the process of receiving some pieces from Italy.
“Our male customers are aware of our limited men’s range. They are already looking forward to the new pieces that we bring in.”
While the pivot by jewellery brands in catering to male needs is novel, maybe it should not be seen as a result of an increase in interest among men.
After all, menswear has been very much a valid component of the fashion industry for the longest time.
The jewellery market is probably just only waking up to the fact that all people – yes, men included – can appreciate accessorising with beautifully designed jewellery.
Or, as Zaireen succintly puts it: “Both women and men are looking for quality jewellery to invest in.”
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