Cool yet casual? How menswear is tackling the new reality of formal attire

Hybrid dressing is the current trend for menswear, where tailored pieces are worn in a casual and stylish way. Photo: Giorgio Armani

For the past few years, fashion magazines have been predicting the return of suits in menswear – and each time, their words ring hollow.

Before the pandemic hit, streetwear was already edging out smartly tailored garments. Then lockdowns came into place. This sounded the proverbial death knell for stuffy, overly formal clothes.

That said, suits still made an appearance on the Spring/Summer 2022 runways this year. They come in a slightly different look though. Rather than being crisp and sleek, they carry a much cooler vibe.

There is a fusion of single and double-breasted jackets, for example. The asymmetrical element makes them avant-garde. Suits like these certainly don’t belong in the boardroom anymore.

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Designers are also pairing formal jackets with shorts. Some even go the length further (or perhaps, nearer) by sending out micro shorts.

Of course, Daniel Craig rocked the conventional suit in the latest James Bond film, No Time To Die. Most men are not fictional secret agents though. Nor do they have access to an array of Tom Ford and Douglas Hayward creations and a costume team to keep their clothes looking immaculate.

Comfort and ease of movement is a priority in real life. As people now return to the office, they may find it hard to shrug off the convenience of less-constricting outfits.

They are not wearing pyjamas of course, but suits are no longer favoured – and probably will not be the chosen outfit for day-to-day work moving forward. Hybrid designs however, have the potential to be the new formal.

Classic versus cool

In Malaysia, designers are seen sticking to the formal route. They are open to change though, with many admitting that tailoring in menswear cannot survive by existing as it is. This does not mean pivoting too far into streetwear.

Will formal designs survive a changed world? Some designers still think they will. Photo: Vestio Bespoke

Vincent Siow, who runs the Vestio Bespoke menswear boutique in Bangsar Village, says that it is complicated balancing wants and needs, but somehow, it can be done. It is, after all, up to a designer to wisely walk the line between two very different worlds.

“I am going more tailoring base with my upcoming collection. The pieces are rooted in tradition, but there will be subtle nuances of modernity,” he notes, about sticking to formalwear.

He believes there are guys who will want their suits to be suits.

“I think in general, after lockdown have eased, there’s a pent up demand for tailored suits for work,” he points out. “Some people may have gained or lost weight during lockdown. Others will need tailored tuxedos for events or parties again.”

Siow has an optimistic view on how the tailoring trade will pick up again.

“In the coming year, I expect the industry to go stronger as we adapt to Covid-19 as endemic. Though the way we do things will be different, we are still social beings, and celebrating life events will continue to drive the need for tailoring.”

Lord’s Tailor is however, turning to smart casual menswear. The Malaysian tailoring label has always focused on traditional suits, but recently launched a collection that fits in with the new normal way of life.

“Every piece of outfit in the collection is designed with attention to details with comfort being the most important element,” reads the description.

“The cut of each outfit is deliberately relaxed – with unstructured jackets and Gurkha pants taking centre stage. Military pockets on jackets give the collection an interesting edge.”

There has also been a notable shift away from stiffly structured ensembles towards a more comfortable and relaxed fit. Blazers come in unstructured forms, and colours are now cool and neutral.

To suit, or not?

The suits spotted on international runways are as far removed from the tailoring world as they can be. Purists will probably not even call them suits anymore.

“In a moment where our freedom has seemed to have limits, I think it’s also the moment to push it so I really wanted to give a sense of freedom to this man. I think it’s the time to break boundaries,” Silvia Venturini Fendi told Vogue.

The creative director of menswear at Fendi further explained that her Spring/Summer 2022 collection “mapped out some new contours in the shifted topography” of the label’s thinking when it comes to dressing guys.

This is apparent in how she paired structured formal jackets with shorts. Some of the short shorts even come with cargo pockets, highlighting the more outdoorsy feel of her vision of menswear.

Suits can now also come as part of extremely short shorts. Photo: Fendi

Contrasting masculinity and femininity, Dries Van Noten pushed the boundaries of designs for men too. While sticking to a staple of tailoring, this element has been made larger than life.

Suits are big and beautiful. They are fashion from bright and standout prints, as well as desert camouflage. Sweatpants make an appearance as well, but worn with blazers. It is formality in a different era.

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“Like, we have this classic mohair suit but we also made the most delicate, see-through shirt to go with it,” Van Noten explained to High Snobiety.

About his silk pieces, he said that they are “washed, easy, a hint of formal but the lightness of enjoying life”.

For Dior, the new men’s collection is seen as redefining masculine identity – or rather, a new vocabulary of how men can dress up.

Instead of a single straight down closure, jackets are fastened with a single button slightly to the right. Jil Sander did the same thing too, creating a fresh silhouette that takes the formality off a formal suit.

In Giorgio Armani’s case, a suit can even be just a shirt and a trouser in matching fabric. No jacket needed.

“I do not like it when people are worn by clothes instead of wearing them. This has become even more important in the current situation,” Giorgio pointed out to the media, in argument of his fresh take on modern dressing.

All of these show that the codes of formalwear have totally changed.

While some may still adhere to a more traditional viewpoint, others are embracing the inevitable shift to casual fashion – even when it comes to something as classic as the suit.

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