Noodles with smokey char

Not far from Batu Kentonmen MRT station is the busy residential enclave of Taman Kok Lian in Sentul, Kuala Lumpur, which offers pockets of good food.

Soon Lee Prawn Mee is an unassuming stall under a zinc-roofed shed.

Appearances can be deceiving, however, as pinned up there were numerous faded photographs of Hong Kong celebrities who visited this humble stall. This was a surprise to me as it’s not something you would expect to see at a nondescript roadside stall located off the more well-known food haunts.

Unlike most stalls in the area which serve the lunch crowd, Soon Lee only opens just after the peak hour at 1.30pm. This odd opening time doesn’t deter customers as the tables are always full, and they are kept busy all afternoon until closing time at 9.30pm.

Most people would inevitably order a bowl of prawn noodles (RM9) as it is the signature dish. The portion of noodles and toppings of pork slices, prawns, bean sprouts, kangkung (water spinach) and half a hard-boiled egg are generous and hearty.

Those with small appetites might struggle to finish a bowl, but you will do your utmost best anyway since the broth is incredibly tasty. Light and clear, yet robust with the sweet, smoky flavour of prawns, it’s not too sweet or cloying.

To build your perfect mouthful, fill your spoon with a base of noodles, then top it with prawns, a slice of pork, some vegetables for crunch, scoop up some broth and then top it off with the homemade chilli sauce that packs a punch! While Soon Lee Prawn Mee sells one of the best prawn noodles I’ve had, for the best value, I often order their other star noodle dish – Char Kway Teow (RM9).

Everyone has a favourite char kway teow stall which they go to, as did I, until I stumbled on this one. So for me, I can stop looking now. Whenever I feel like having a plate of well-fried noodles, this is where I go.

Two star dishes are sold at the stall — char kway teow and prawn noodles. — Photos: SUE YAP

Soon Lee is one of the few places I’ve been to in the Klang Valley that serves up a mixture of noodles – fresh yellow noodles with the ubiquitous rice noodles. While you can opt for just one type of noodles, my personal recommendation is to order a combo as the different textures of the noodles make for an enjoyable mouth-feel and adds to the enjoyment of the dish.

As someone who is sensitive to the alkaline taste of fresh yellow noodles, I can attest to the fact that the one used by Soon Lee does not have this effect on me.

Each time I’ve eaten here, I’ve always found the noodles well-fried, with a lovely smoky char (wok hei) enveloping the noodles. The flavour is well-balanced, not overly salty and just the right amount of sauces and garlic, and chilli paste if you opt for the spicy version.

Like the prawn noodles, the portion is generous and comes with mid-sized crunchy prawns, a good amount of cockles (if you opt for them), fresh bean sprouts, chives and scrambled egg.

Honestly, I feel the fried noodles is so underrated as it’s only ordered by those who know of this option and can look beyond the enticing bowls of prawn noodles around them.

Traffic is heavy around the area and especially so during lunch hour, and parking is very limited. Since it’s under a zinc-roofed shed, it is also very hot. But if you persevere, things lighten up for tea and dinner, and it’s slightly more comfortable at night.

You will find yourself wiping sweat off your brow as you eat, and downing cups of iced drinks to cool off. But I wager you will also be slurping the best prawn noodles and char kway teow on this side of town, and making plans to come back for more.Soon Lee Prawn Mee (stall)34, Jalan Batu Ambar

Taman Kok Lian

Kuala Lumpur

012-660 7127

Opening Hours:

1.30pm-9.30pm (Closed on Mondays)