Big on beefy goodness


By SUE YAP

A closer look at what’s in the beef noodles soup.

The best bowl of beef noodles in KL is found in an obscure nameless shop.

Some of the best places to eat have no names and are located off the beaten track.

One such place is a beef noodle stall in Taman Kok Lian, Kuala Lumpur. The row of shops in the area serve the local community, and in my opinion, this is where you can find the best beef noodles in Kuala Lumpur, bar none!

The stall sign just states “Beef Noodles” and is tucked inside a corner coffeeshop that bears no signboard on Jalan Batu Ambar. It was formerly known as Restoran Argyle or Restoran Wong Kok, if you’re searching on Waze. But obviously, many are aware of this open secret, judging by the queue that forms in the morning!

Getting all the ingredients ready for a bowl of beefy goodness.Getting all the ingredients ready for a bowl of beefy goodness.

Known to the locals as Ah Heng Beef Noodles, the stall is run by an elderly couple who are now assisted by their children. It has been around for more than four decades. This is where you can tuck in to bowls of delicious beefy broth filled with generous slices of fresh beef and various other bovine parts to suit your fancy, including bouncy beef balls.

The beef noodles are available in either soup or dry versions, though they are more popular with the local crowd for their Hakka style noodles, which are served dry. The noodles are blanched and dressed, and served with a dollop of chopped beef sauce that you mix thoroughly before eating. I would describe the sauce as having “chopped beef” as it’s coarser than your regular minced beef sauce.

It is a tasty thick sauce, the amount given is just right to coat the noodles. Eaten in situ, the Hakka noodles are cooked just right and still very springy. However, if you opt for takeaway, the noodles tend to get a little soggy and overcooked once you reach home. So, for the dry Hakka noodles, it is recommended to eat in for maximum enjoyment. There are other types of noodles available as well.

A bowl of beef noodles soup with a generous assortment of beef slices.A bowl of beef noodles soup with a generous assortment of beef slices.

The dry version comes together with a bowl of soup, filled with a variety of beef parts for a basic bowl. This includes tender beef slices such as beef tripe, beef brisket and beef tendon aside from beef balls that are cooked just right.

However, if you have a preference for a certain part of beef, you may also choose to customise your bowl. Prices start from RM13 for a generous portion.

What makes this beef noodle stall a stand-out is the quality of their broth and the ingredients in it.

The stall doesn’t have a name and just says Hakka beef noodles in Chinese.The stall doesn’t have a name and just says Hakka beef noodles in Chinese.

The broth looks deceptively thick and murky, but is light in the mouth with a delicate taste of beef and spices that don’t overwhelm the taste buds. The fresh coriander leaves that are tossed into the soup aren’t mere garnishing either as they serve to lift the flavour.

The beef pieces are tender, thick and generously sized. You would surely feel satisfied, both your tummy and your mouth, after you slurp up the last drop of soup!I personally prefer the soup version as I can enjoy the noodles and soup together. I usually order a bowl with just beef slices and beef balls as these are the star ingredients for me.

Hakka-style dry beef noodles.Hakka-style dry beef noodles.

The fresh beef slices are cooked to perfection, soft and tender, with no tough gristle. Each piece is cut to a generous thickness and size, and there’s no gamey smell or taste that’s often associated with beef.

The perfect accompaniment to this beefy repertoire is their homemade chilli sauce. Made with chillies, garlic and ginger, it adds kick to the dish and has a sour tangy taste that cuts the richness of the meal. A perfect mouthful, to me, would have noodles topped with a slice of beef dipped into the chilli sauce, and chased down with a spoonful of soup.

Now this is a bowl of beef noodles worth having!

Opinions expressed here are the writer’s own and food is at her own expense.

Beef Noodles stall

(formerly in Restoran Argyle)

1, Jalan Batu Ambar

Taman Kok Lian

Kuala Lumpur

Opening Hours:

Daily: 7am to 3pm

Closed on Fridays and Mondays.

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