WUHAN: At 3 am, the only sound Ding Yuankai can hear is the gentle splash of oars slicing through a pond in Qianjiang, a city in Central China's Hubei province.
With a flashlight strapped to his wrist and clad in waterproof overalls, Ding sets off in his small boat to begin his daily routine. One by one, he hauls up cages wriggling with red, armored crustaceans destined for dinner tables across the country.
