PHNOM PENH: At a time when short-form videos, artificial intelligence and fast fashion dominate the global style conversation, the commitment to organising the spectacle of a traditional runway has taken on increasing importance for Cambodia’s orange (creative) economy.
For the creators preparing for this year’s Phnom Penh Designers Week (PPDW), the catwalk remains one of the most potent forms of artistic expression.
Set to take place on 5 and 6 June at the Rosewood Phnom Penh, the 2026 edition of Cambodia’s leading fashion showcase is built around the theme “Artistic Freedom” — a call for designers to strip away expectations and reveal their most authentic visions.
Founded in 2013 by Sophea Ke, alongside Filipino fashion designer Don Protasio, who has served as its creative director since its inception, the event has grown into the Kingdom’s most influential platform for fashion.
It continually brings together Cambodian and international creatives in a cultural dialogue where heritage meets innovation.
For Protasio, the annual gathering is as much about community as it is about clothes, a sentiment highlighted during the pre-runway press conference held at the Rosewood Phnom Penh on May 15.
“Here, it’s usually we do this thing to gather all the creators in friends, models, designers,” Protasio said. “Everyone in this enrolled in common desires need to have a get-together and, you know, chit chat and catch up with each other before the big show on June 5 and 6.”
He added, with a laugh: “I haven’t finished my collections yet. Good luck to me.”
That blend of camaraderie and creative pressure captures the definitive spirit of PPDW, where established names and emerging talents alike are given a stage to test new ideas.
This year’s line-up includes menswear from Thomas Jaffre of Ambre Men, Ryan Drewe Taylor and Protasio himself, alongside womenswear from A.N.D., Semurian, Phoung By S, and Eric Raisina. Debut collections from Puthy Vong and LYNYPO will add fresh perspectives to the runway.
Despite the rapid rise of digital platforms, few designers believe the live runway has lost its relevance.
Ryan Drewe Taylor, whose new collection “Kingdom Reloaded” follows his acclaimed “Kingdom Rising” show at Noir Fashion Week in New York, sees the runway as an irreplaceable part of a larger storytelling ecosystem.
“Film and video may tell stories better today, but they don’t replace the runway — fashion is strongest when runway, film, and social media work together,” Taylor said.
His collection is described as a collision of Khmer heritage and contemporary Cambodian street style, expressing what he calls “a nation (Cambodia) stepping into its power. Emotionally, it’s about pride and transformation.”
That interplay between tradition and reinvention runs through many of this year’s collections.
For Nha Kemmolyny, who co-founded LYNYPO with Teav Meng Po, the physical platform of PPDW allows the audience to feel movement, texture, and presence in a way data cannot replicate.
“Fashion shows are still powerful because they create emotion in real time that something digital cannot fully replace,” Kemmolyny noted.
“The industry should explore hybrid formats, combining runway with immersive digital storytelling, where audiences can experience the collection both physically and virtually.”
For LYNYPO’s debut, their collection “The Garden” draws on themes of growth, decay and renewal, using sculptural silhouettes and layered textures to explore the relationship between human emotion and nature.
Semurian’s Dim Sereyroth offers a quieter but equally deliberate vision in “The New Normal”, where the humble white shirt becomes a statement moving with the wearer from stillness to motion.
“It reflects understated power, effortless movement and a refined confidence that speaks without needing to be seen,” she said.
Meanwhile, Protasio’s “Hybrid” imagines a nomadic urban tribe hacking and reworking pieces of clothing into strange anomalies, turning tuxedo shirts into vests and trousers into shirts in an exercise of deconstruction and reconstruction.
If the collections differ widely in aesthetic, the designers are remarkably aligned on the systemic pressures currently facing the fashion industry.
“The biggest challenge today is keeping identity in a world driven by trends and speed,” Sereyroth said.
Taylor echoed the concern, arguing that fashion is too often “driven by speed and trends, often at the expense of intention, identity, and storytelling”.
For Eric Raisina, who is internationally renowned for his intricate, hand-generated textiles, the industry has strayed from its core purpose.
“Fashion moves far too fast today,” Raisina said. “Fashion is supposed to offer dreams and tell true stories.”
Alain James Flux of the brand A.N.D. took a sharper aim at global runway trends, suggesting that the fashion industry doesn’t need to face challenges if it simply sorts itself out.
He noted that it is difficult to believe in a legacy House when, for the sake presumably of publicity, it lets some “stoopid” designer litter their catwalk with derivative dross.
“At least Chanel [IMHO] seem to have found themselves a designer who can take a famous but frazzled House and give it a much-needed kiss of life,” Flux observed.
Sustainability also looms large over the 2026 showcase. LYNYPO’s Teav Meng Po said the future of fashion depends on balancing environmental responsibility with a clear creative voice, while fellow debutant Puthy Vong warned against overconsumption, advocating instead for the production of clothes “people truly value, not just wear once and forget”.
Yet, amid these challenges, the designers remain profoundly committed to the deeply personal nature of their craft.
Asked what they have learned about themselves through the creative process, several spoke of trusting instinct and resisting outside noise.
“I’ve learned that my strength is in trusting my instinct,” said Meng Po.
Taylor’s answer was even more concise: “Never to doubt myself.”
For many, the ultimate reward remains the exquisite moment when abstract ideas take physical form.
“The construction of the garment — my ideas finally coming to life,” Protasio said.
As Phnom Penh’s fashion community gathers beneath the chandeliers of the Rosewood next month, the event will showcase far more than seasonal garments.
It will reveal a generation of designers asserting that independent creativity still matters, and that fashion, at its best, remains a vital language of identity, memory, and possibility.
In an era of algorithms and disposable trends, Phnom Penh Designers Week is making a different argument: that the most enduring style begins with artistic freedom. - The Phnom Penh Post/ANN
