While bahulu can still be found, other delicacies such as kuih bikang, ulat-ulat, bubur baras behuar, sumboi-sumboi and delamu are slowly disappearing in Brunei. — MUHAMAD SHAHRIL ROSLI/The Star
BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN: Hari Raya Aidilfitri and traditional kuih-muih (local cakes and biscuits) are inseparable, with colourful and flavourful treats adorning coffee tables in homes across the country. These festive delicacies not only bring cheer to gatherings but also symbolise hospitality during Hari Raya.
However, the passage of time and the evolution of culinary preferences have taken their toll on some of these traditional offerings. Many once-familiar treats are slowly fading from memory, replaced by trendier, more flavourful modern bakes.
“Without a spread of beautiful and delicious cakes and cookies, Hari Raya would feel incomplete,” said Haji Sohaili, recalling how vibrant past celebrations used to be. “In the old days, our mothers would begin baking as early as the fasting month, storing biscuits in square tins. Though the process was time-consuming, the result was a table full of homemade delights.”
Among the traditional Malay treats that are now rarely seen during Hari Raya Aidilfitri are agar-agar kering (dried agar-agar) known as puteri duyung, jit manis, bahulu, jala, mumbai, kuih cacah, ardam and biskut sarang semut.
Acting Village Head of Kampong Jerudong ‘B’ Kamis bin Panjang, also expressed concern over the dwindling presence of Kedayan traditional kuih, such as kuih bikang, ulat-ulat, bubur baras behuar, sumboi-sumboi and delamu, which he says are rarely prepared today.
He urged that these recipes and preparation techniques be passed on to younger generations. “As inheritors of the Malay heritage, we must preserve not just the names of these kuih, but the methods of making them. These are our identity and legacy.”
He suggested that even if these treats are revived only once or twice a year during Hari Raya Aidilfitri or Aidiladha, they can still become meaningful symbols of tradition – and perhaps even inspire innovation, just as seen with modern twists on kek batik, kek lapis, kuih mor and others.
As festive menus continue to evolve, many hope that the legacy of traditional Malay treats will not be forgotten but celebrated as part of the nation’s culinary identity. – Borneo Bulletin/ANN
