Bustling Bangkok bounces back

Back in business: Tourists and locals alike can be seen visiting popular spots such as Siam Square in Bangkok. — AFP

THE most visited city in the world has some tough choices ahead in the next few months.

Just as Bangkok (and Thailand in general) has drastically reduced travel restrictions and seen a huge rise in tourist arrivals as a result, there has also been a surge in Covid-19 infections, fuelled by highly transmissible new Omicron sub-variants.

Pre-pandemic, Bangkok had an estimated 23 million tourist arrivals annually. The last two years, ravaged by the coronavirus, has taken its toll.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand now estimates the total number of travellers visiting the capital this year to be less than 10 million.

This number is a far cry from its peak in 2019 but it will still be well ahead of other South-East Asian destinations, given the fact that the Chinese who form the biggest group of tourists in the region have yet to start travelling.

Two and a half years ago from my last visit to the Land of Smiles, I was back again to one of my favourite Asean destinations.

It’s fascinating and quite sad to see how Bangkok has evolved since my last visit in January 2020.

For starters, the ubiquitous street vendor, for so long associated with the capital, is no longer around. Well, there still are a smattering of hawkers around, but the majority have been relocated to food courts or are in the process of doing so.

The move is part of Bangkok Governor Chadchart Sittipunt’s crusade to clean up the capital.

Food courts or hawker centres are seen as a permanent solution to the chaotic street vendor stalls that were strewn throughout the city. A number of these vendors have moved to vacant land and abandoned areas underneath highways.

As a frequent traveller to Bangkok pre-pandemic, I was disappointed to learn that two of my favourite eateries have closed, victims of the economic fallout from Covid restrictions.

A popular live music venue I used to visit in the Sukhumvit Soi 22 area was also permanently shut. These three and thousands of other businesses did not survive the pandemic.

But the Thai people are resilient. Many of the capital’s famed F&B establishments are starting to bounce back.

One example is the Wattana Panich beef noodles eatery in the Ekamai district.

Popular with both locals and tourists alike, this 50-year old restaurant had the same long queues I experienced the last time I visited.

Tourism is the lifeblood of Bangkok and the lifting of virtually all travel restrictions has seen people from all over the world converging on Suvarnabhumi airport again.

Malaysians and Singaporeans, together with travellers from India, the Middle East and Europe, form the largest number of travellers taking advantage of Thailand scrapping its unpopular Thailand Pass entry requirement.

Barely a month ago, travellers were required to download the Thailand Pass app, obtain travel insurance and show proof of a Covid test before being allowed entry, but these requirements have been scrapped.

Getting in was a breeze, as the time from disembarking from the plane to leaving the airport was less than 30 minutes.

Malaysians are required to show the MySejahtera vaccine certificate on your phone, but that was all. Immigration was super-fast.

The surge in tourist arrivals are not welcomed by all though. Locals are still careful to wear masks indoors and in public places, but the malls and BTS skytrains can become super crowded during peak hours and I noticed that foreigners tend to be cavalier about masking up.

This, even though public service announcements are played constantly advising people to mask up. There is no enforcement of this directive that I’m aware of though.

The rising Covid numbers has led to the health ministry calling for a cutback on mass activities.

As of yet, the governor has resisted these calls, but it does appear like a matter of time before Bangkok imposes some sort of restriction on public gatherings.

Public gatherings are now commonplace. You can take in an impromptu live performance by street musicians in Siam Square, shop at the famed Chatuchak weekend market or even choose to visit any one of the night markets here, but the sheer number of people packed like sardines in these places are a risk you should consider before deciding to go.

One new business that has sprouted in the last month or so is the cannabis trade.

Thailand became the first country in Asia to legalise marijuana and allow its personal use, cultivation and possession.

There are now shops selling marijuana in various forms across the city, from raw hemp to sweets, gum, cookies, cakes and drinks.

There are guidelines of course for its sale and consumption but decriminalising the plant for industrial, medical and personal use has caused a lot of controversy in the kingdom.

The so-called “pot law” has raised concerns about misuse as well as the potential violation of international laws ratified by Thailand.

Several Thai embassies, including those in China, South Korea, Singapore and Japan, have warned people travelling from Thailand not to bring cannabis or cannabis-based products to their countries.

Pot or no pot, Covid or no Covid, it’s easy to understand why tourists are flocking to Bangkok again.

This is a city of contrasts with action at every turn.

A diverse metropolis that provides unique experiences, catering to all kinds of travellers – from budget to luxury.