Yong tau foo business booming thanks to family’s culinary treasure
GEORGE TOWN: Using his grandfather’s cherished 90-year-old fish ball recipe, Phaung Kong Yeow crafts five types of traditional yong tau foo, a dish that has become a treasure in Penang’s vibrant food scene.
His family-run business, nestled near the base of Penang Hill in Jalan Pokok Ceri, has attracted a loyal following, especially among residents from Air Itam and beyond.
Phaung, 52, took over the business in 1998 from his father, who inherited it from his father, who hailed from Dabu County in Meizhou, Guangdong in China.
“It’s an honour to continue my family’s tradition. Every day brings hard work and dedication, but the joy of serving customers our authentic flavours makes it all worthwhile,” he said.
Alongside him in the daily operations is his wife, Khoo Wei Wen, 45, as well as two supportive neighbours who help prepare the yong tau foo for sale.
Although his two daughters and a son, aged 21, 23, and 24, have pursued different career paths, Phaung has ensured that the family’s culinary heritage is preserved for future generations.
“My daughters learnt the recipe by helping at the stall since they were young, carefully observing each step and mastering the techniques passed down through generations,” Phaung said.
“I have also documented everything in detail, from the ingredients and cooking methods to the little secrets that make our dishes unique, so they will always have a reference if they choose to return to the business.”
But, he added, “this is more than just a business. It’s our family’s legacy – a heritage built on hard work, love, and tradition.”
The secret of the recipe, possibly more than a century old, lies in its key ingredients: eel meat, tapioca flour and some seasoning. Phaung’s grandfather was already making the dish in China before emigrating to Malaysia.
“Each day, I use about 100kg of eel and I am able to make 2,200 pieces of yong tau foo,” he said. “These are also sold to market traders across the island, and I keep some to sell myself.”
Every afternoon, he takes his freshly-made yong tau foo on a rotating route: Kuantan Road Market on Mondays, Rifle Range on Tuesdays, Farlim Night Market on Wednesdays, Paya Terubong on Thursdays, Jelutong Night Market on Fridays, and Jalan Besi on Saturdays, with Sundays reserved for rest.
Air Itam assemblyman Joseph Ng visited Phaung’s stall recently and expressed his appreciation.
“This yong tau foo is a local treasure I’ve enjoyed since my teenage years. Air Itam and Penang are rich in unique culinary traditions, and it’s essential to preserve these to ensure they aren’t lost in the future.”
