Cows, culls and cutbacks

Beuret with some of the more than 60 cows at his farm in Corban, Switzerland. The country’s dairy farmers produced a bumper harvest of milk, but higher US duties have forced them to consider ways to cut back, including slaughtering cows. — Lea Meienberg/The New York Times

AS dairy farmer Boris Beuret moves through the gently rolling meadows of his farm in Switzerland’s Jura region, he counts more than 60 cows – or at least he used to.

Their milk, rich from tender grasses, goes into the cheeses and chocolates that Switzerland is known for, much of it bound for the United States.