A vanishing harvest of ‘red gold’


Fruit harvesters collecting whatever raspberries they could find. According to official figures, the harvest will be severely compromised this year, with farmers reporting that yields are five times lower than in the worst previous years. — AFP

FACING drought and record heat, raspberry farmers in western Serbia are warning of the worst season in decades for one of the world’s largest exporters of the fruit.

Under the scorching sun, pickers move through parched raspberry fields in search of the few fruits that have not shrivelled to a pea.

The dry spell started six weeks early in the region of Arilje, around 120km southwest of Belgrade, hitting a harvest already weakened by a late frost, which struck while the berries were in bloom.

“I used to be the best picker here, getting 100, even 120 kilos a day. Now I can barely manage 20 or 25,” said Ivan Mitic as he plucked berries from the occasional healthy branch.

Even after he has sorted through several rows in the intense summer heat, the richest raspberries are in short supply, and his fluorescent green tray is left half-filled.

“You just can’t pick enough. From five or six rows, you can’t even fill one crate,” the 27-year-old picker said.

Data published by the World Bank show Serbia was the top global exporter of several frozen berries, including raspberries, in 2023.

The Serbian Chamber of Commerce said that in 2024, Serbia shipped around 80,000 tonnes of raspberries, mostly frozen, to major markets including France and Germany. — AFPThe Serbian Chamber of Commerce said that in 2024, Serbia shipped around 80,000 tonnes of raspberries, mostly frozen, to major markets including France and Germany. — AFP

In 2024, it shipped around 80,000 tonnes of raspberries, mostly frozen, to major markets including France and Germany, according to the Serbian Chamber of Commerce.

But it has not rained for almost three months, and with no irrigation systems, Mitic’s employer Mileta Pilcevic said farmers are experiencing the worst season in 50 years.

“We expected a state of natural disaster to be declared. The heat has been extreme. We thought someone would reach out, but no one has,” Pilcevic said.

The third-generation raspberry farmer said his fruits had withered to a fraction of even a poor harvest, where he could expect at least 22 tonnes.

“This year, after all this drought, I’ll be lucky to get five.”

Across his three hectares, dead fruit and pale green, unripe berries hang from leaves.

June was Serbia’s driest month on record, according to meteorologists, with no rain in what is usually the Balkan nation’s wettest weeks.

“Due to climate change, climate variability has increased,” University of Belgrade meteorologist Ana Vukovic Vimic said.

“The warm, dry season is getting longer, while peak rainfall has moved from June to May, with the trend continuing toward earlier months,” Vukovic Vimic said.

Mitic’s boss Pilcevic holding raspberries salvaged from his parched farm ahead of harvesting near Arilje. The Arilje region in western Serbia, well known for its red berries, has dried up this summer due to climate change; extreme drought followed a late frost a few months earlier, which weakened the raspberries while they were in flower. — AFPMitic’s boss Pilcevic holding raspberries salvaged from his parched farm ahead of harvesting near Arilje. The Arilje region in western Serbia, well known for its red berries, has dried up this summer due to climate change; extreme drought followed a late frost a few months earlier, which weakened the raspberries while they were in flower. — AFP

Alongside declining rainfall, the region has warmed dramatically in the last 10 to 20 years – now 2°C warmer on average, she said.

This summer is predicted to be record-breaking, with its average temperature already 2.5°C hotter, the professor said.

Serbia’s “red gold” is one of the country’s most important export products and is among the many crops stricken by the drier, hotter climate, agricultural economist Milan Prostran said.

The berry makes up a third of all fruits exported from the country and was worth around US$290mil in 2024, according to the chamber of commerce.

This year, drought is likely to drag those figures down.

“Reports from the field suggest this will be one of the worst seasons we have seen, both in yield and fruit quality,” the chamber warned.

Prostran said investment in irrigation had been “completely neglected” in a country with abundant rivers.

“I hope it will receive more attention in the coming years,” he said.

How a stem of dried-up raspberries looks like. — AFPHow a stem of dried-up raspberries looks like. — AFP

The state company in charge of irrigation projects said it is aware of the challenges, noting that irrigated land in Serbia has increased significantly over the past five years.

But just over 2% of the land suitable for irrigation had systems in place, the company Srbijavode said in a written statement.

Further development is “crucial to mitigating drought and ensuring stable agricultural production”, the company said.

But raspberry farmers in the hills of Arilje, already weighed down by three bad seasons, do not have the funds to install the systems themselves.

“Maybe there will be drought next year, maybe not, we don’t know,” said Ljube Jakovljevic, who runs a farm neighbouring Pilcevic’s.

On dry days, he hauls water in large canisters by tractor to maintain his 2ha of raspberries.

Both Mitic and Pilcevic agree that without help to build irrigation systems, the future of the region’s raspberry production, and the 20,000 residents who rely on it, is uncertain.

“The consequences will be catastrophic. We will not be able to survive from this, let alone invest in the next season,” Pilcevic said. — AFP

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